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dipesh267's "How To Change your Oil" *with pics*

132K views 207 replies 107 participants last post by  DDay 
#1 ·
Thanks to dipesh267 for sending in this helpful "How To"!! :2tu

Oil Change For Triumph 675

Triumph recommended material has already been discussed in the 675 forum.
http://www.triumph675.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6787

Manual recommends running the bike for a while and warming the engine thoroughly before the oil change. Manual aslo recommends waiting atleast 10 mintues after the engine has been shut off to allow sufficient cooling.
Remove the left side fairing. Instructions to remove the fairing is also discussed in the 675 forum here.

http://www.triumph675.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=948

Once the fairing is off identify the oil drain bolt and the oil filter.




Unlike some other sportbikes, the oil filter is easily accessible and has enough room to apply some elbow grease.

Remove the drain bolt. Make sure you keep your hands away from the oil that pours out because it's hot from the hot engine. Let the oil drain into the drain pan.



Remove the oil filter after a while. Some oil will pour out of the filter so be careful because it's hot as well.



Once the oil has drained take the new oil filter and line the seal with some of the oil itself that was drained or with the fresh oil.



Fit the oil filter and tighten to 7.3 lbf ft (10Nm)



Replace the crush seal if it's crushed or damaged with a new one and place the bolt back.




I used this oil wrech to remove the oil filter. Sometime some people over tighthen them too much so they can be pretty touch to remove because this particular filter wrench can slip quite easily. We're going to replace the filter anyway so be imaginative if needed to remove it.



I decided to go with this Repsol Oil.



Notice the specifications that the manual says is highly recommended.



Once the oil drain bolt and the oil filter have been properly fitted, open the filler cap on the right side of the bike and use a funnel to put oil in.



Make sure your bike has enough oil but do not over fill. The following image was taken from the link http://www.triumph675.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12301



Replace the fairings and start your engine and let it idle for a while.
 
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#54 ·
One thing I like to do when changing the oil in any of my vehicles is to fill the oil filter and letting it soak in a bit while doing the rest of the work. This helps reduce the chance of a dry start. The filter is already wet with oil. If the filter mounts vertically, I go as far as to fill it again once it's saoked in for a bit. Just me being causious... :thumbup:
 
#58 ·
The oil filter wrench can be ordered from Bike Bandit.

8: OIL FILTER WRENCH,64MM # 5577963-001 $16.50

That # starting with 5577... is the bike bandit part number for it. That wrench fits on the end of the filter like a socket and makes it MUCH easier to get the filter off with the fairing still in place. I checked every local parts store to find one that fit the Triumph filter, but could not find one. A strap type wrench works great, but you need the fairing off to get in there. For the price and the fact it saves time by not needing to pull the fairing off, I thought it was a bargain.

I have also ordered the oil filters from them. I prefer to order a few at a time and have them available instead of the extra trip to my local dealer (45 minutes away).

7: OIL FILTER MULTIPACK (25) # 5566385-001 $294.58
7: OIL FILTER MULTIPACK (50) # 5566386-001 $535.60
7: OIL FILTER # 5566387-001 $ 12.85

I get them in the single package, not the 25 or 50 at a time, though. They are about $5 cheaper than at my dealer, too.
 
#59 ·
I posted this in the other thread but is it possible to use a Fumoto valve of some sort? I have on on my STi. Eliminate the mess via undoing the oil pan bolt and elimintates the need for the stupid crush ring.



See picture above for what it looks like on car.

EDIT: And $12 for a freaking oil filter... wtf?! I can't get over how expensive that is!

Thanks,
-Nigel
 
#64 ·
Bamboo, check yours if it's still in good shape, just flip it and save yourself the trip to the dealer. if you're going there to get the filter and oil, they'll probably just handed it to ya (it's only like $.50). If you're banking on picking it up from some auto-parts store, then take with ya to match it with the new one. Your oil will be drained by the time you come back.
 
#66 ·
Did this the other night and it was super easy! I went with Amsoil 20/50 and used a K&N filter for now. Thanks for this write up. I took the "how to" and made it a PDF file! Enjoy...

I printed it out and have a binder with the manual, oil change how to and the coolant flush how to in there.
 

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#70 ·
yea i was reading this.. figured id throw in my 10 cents.

took 15 to get fairing off... 15 to drain oil. 2 putting plug and new filter on

5 mins and 3.2-3.4 quarts of mobile 1 later fired her up.

idled for 10-15 mins, shutoff...took off read stand, put on sidestand put board under sidestand to get bike level....wait 10 mins. mark right in the middle of the green zone.

back onto rear stand...put fairing back on.. took 20min

total time 1 hour 20mins~ ... everything mentioned included
 
#71 ·
yea i was reading this.. figured id throw in my 10 cents.

took 15 to get fairing off... 15 to drain oil. 2 putting plug and new filter on

5 mins and 3.2-3.4 quarts of mobile 1 later fired her up.

idled for 10-15 mins, shutoff...took off read stand, put on sidestand put board under sidestand to get bike level....wait 10 mins. mark right in the middle of the green zone.

back onto rear stand...put fairing back on.. took 20min

total time 1 hour 20mins~ ... everything mentioned included
Wow! 3.2-3.4 qts! I did just 3 qts of Amsoil 20W-50 and I was at the full mark spot on. What kind of filter did you use. I used the K&N but looking to go with the Scotts re-usable for next time.
 
#72 ·
i used the actual triumph filter for the bike...b4 have used a hi-flo one that is bigger.. thats what i took off in fact... drained 3 quarts full to the top out of her...

i started by putting in 2.6 liters .. and it was barely on the bottom of the stick.. under the low marking.... kept adding like 200 ml at a time.. and added it up took the conversion and cameup with what i got above 3.2-3.4 quarts....

im soo thankful i even decided to check it.. triumph should feel pretty ashamed of themselves for advising to underfill your oil by that much...its not even close..:pout:
 
#73 · (Edited)
i used the actual triumph filter for the bike...b4 have used a hi-flo one that is bigger.. thats what i took off in fact... drained 3 quarts full to the top out of her...

i started by putting in 2.6 liters .. and it was barely on the bottom of the stick.. under the low marking.... kept adding like 200 ml at a time.. and added it up took the conversion and cameup with what i got above 3.2-3.4 quarts....

im soo thankful i even decided to check it.. triumph should feel pretty ashamed of themselves for advising to underfill your oil by that much...its not even close..:pout:
I gotta agree with you way2faded. Just finished my oil change. It looked like around 3.5 quarts came out, and it was exactly on the top full line (full ine, not the top of the stick)

I started out with 2.6L, and it was low. Oil low light flashed for a second.
I filled up to 3 quarts, let it warm up and sit. Checked it and it was just above the first hash mark.

I'm at around 3.5ish quarts at the moment and its looking good.

Heres my image of my Fumoto Valve install.
 
#74 ·
so im changing the oil today for the first time on my daytona and either i didnt have a crush seal or it fell off before i had the drain plug all the way out.

...off to the dealership to but a new one.

oh and my dealer, nor the other 2 dealers, nor walmart, nor advanced auto in my area carry full synthetic 10w40. FML...
 
#78 ·
I bought a torque wrench from Cycle Gear(expensive) only because my auto parts store didn't have a torque wrench in the range I needed. I bought a 5-80 lb ft wrench. Cost me ~$60 and that's with the military discount!

EDIT: Anything 10lb ft torque or less I just hand tighten without the torque wrench. There's too much leverage on the small bolt heads for you to get the wrench to click and tell you to stop! I learned that the hard way.
 
#84 ·
IDK where I read, but I'll put this out there I heard you shouldnt use synthetic during break in. Something about everything not sealing like it needs to and later on will have the dreaded oil leak/consumption. Any truth to this?
 
#87 ·
was it at the overfill mark... after he did the oil change and ran the bike for 10 mins?


or just after he poured the oil in b4 running?

also did he check the oil while it was upright... not on the sidestand, not on a rearstand?
 
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