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How To: Yoyodyne Slipper Clutch Install w/ *PICS*

70K views 104 replies 46 participants last post by  Aprilian 
#1 ·
Here it is, I was going to wait for my Woodcraft covers to come in but did it anyways.

TOOLS NEEDED

1.Metric Sockets 8mm,10mm,12mm,32mm
2.Torque wrench to atleast 98NM
3.Motion Pro Clutch holding tool
4.Ratchets
5.Breaker Bar
5.Digital Caliper
6.Metric allen wrench set
7.Dental pick

Materials

1.New Clutch cover gasket
2.Loctite
3.Yoyodyne slipper clutch :D
4.675 Service manual if you have it.
5.Brake Cleaner

The install wasn't too bad, with any mechanical skills anyone can install this clutch.



Remove all fairings and put the bike on stands



First step is to slacken clutch engagement line by loosening the two 12mm nuts. Shown Here. Then remove the clutch line from the bracket.


Then remove the cover and place out of the way. You can see some gasket residue left behind, we will get to that later.



Now this is what you will be working with remove the clutch springs with your 10mm socket.



Once all the springs are removed set them aside and remove the pressure plate. I like to set it upside down on some towling just to the left of me so I can then stack the plates on top of it just as they are in the clutch basket.(for easy install later) this is important because you want Xthe plates to go in just as they came out.EXCEPT THE JUDDER SPRINGS AND PLATE THEY GO IN THIRD!

Stacking the plates on the pressure plate

Drive plates behind the pressure plate

Here is where its nice to have a dental pick, Remove the judder springs remembering exactly the way they came out. The curve faces the clutch cover. THE JUDDER SPRINGS ARE TO BE MOVED TO THE THIRD PLATE IN THE STACK NOT THE FIRST.


Next judder spring, and then theres a smaller friction plate.Thats all of them.


You can remove the clutch actuating pin if you want to inspect it, or just leave it.

Next to remove the clutch drum with the Motion Pro Clutch holding tool. Install the tool inbetween two spleens and hand tighten the knob. HAND TIGHTEN ONLYPlace the end of the tool on the rearset, so the tool can act as a lever so you can remove the nut by yourself using a breaker bar. The nut is torqued to 98NM


Nut Removed you will see this washer telling you what way to reinstall (thanks triumph)


Then you can remove the drum. And now your half way their just time for reinstall.


Install the new yoyodyne drum. Install the washers and nut just like you removed them.


Apply the clutch holding tool and get your torque wrench set to 98NM, again put the clutch holding tool on the rearset, but underneath this time.




Then measure the height of the pressure plate to the drum, I came up with 6.58mm with no plates. Then install all the plates(REMEMBER THE JUDDER SPRING PLATE GOES IN THIRD) and measure your stack height.(my battery was dying so it was flashing the reading) with plates installed my stack height came to 7.61 perfect**you want roughly 1 mm of change for the clutch to work properly.Install the springs.

Now to the clutch cover. You want to remove all existing residue from the old gasket. I used some brake cleaner to loosen up the residue then used my fingernail to remove. YOU DO NOT WANT TO MARE THE MATING SURFACE this will create leaks, clean the cover and case.


Clean cover


New gasket, the writing goes on the inside.



The biggest problem I had was getting the clutch line engagement lever back together. Make sure the lever is on the inside of the frame(see pic) and back on the push rod. Then make sure the cover seats on the two locating dowls and install the cover bolts by hand then torque to 9NM.


HOPE THIS HELPS if anyone needs any further help please feel free to instant message. :D[/img]
 
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#2 ·
Was this How too helpful??????????? :D
 
#5 ·
Thanks man I fixed it :D
 
#9 ·
Ross Walter said:
:cry: That first plate will explode under race conditions trust me it has hapened to us.
Please tell me more :oops: Do I need to remove it? Did you guys put it in as the first plate or the third plate?
 
#11 ·
Scrabba said:
Oh two quick questions.

1. There isn't a break-in process since your using the same plates right?
2. Where did you pick up the new gasket from? dealer?

Thx
bikebandit

but mr. walter has me worried now :oops:I hope its just because they installed theirs wrong, by putting that judder spring plate first!!!!
 
#13 ·
When I get five minutes I will ask sigma if they market under a different name in the USA, look very like a sigma.

With ours we dump the judder spring but then ours are race bikes, we put the special friction plate at the beginning and the end of the stack, that way they wear the surfaces of the clutch less. (They are a softer compound).
If that is what the maunual has told you to do that is what you should do, especially as it is a road bike.
 
#17 ·
Blacktriple said:
Scrabba said:
Ross Walter said:
:cry: That first plate will explode under race conditions trust me it has hapened to us.
hey shane I got a slipper clutch for you. :shock: :lol:
Are you scared? .
Nah, just messin with Shane since he missed the GB.
 
#20 ·
I just got the slipper clutch and thanks for the install instructions. I looked at the dvd that came with the clutch and there does not appear to be any instructions for the 675. I don't understand what you are measuring.

"Then measure the height of the pressure plate to the drum, I came up with 6.58mm with no plates. Then install all the plates(REMEMBER THE JUDDER SPRING PLATE GOES IN THIRD) and measure your stack height.(my battery was dying so it was flashing the reading) with plates installed my stack height came to 7.61 perfect**you want roughly 1 mm of change for the clutch to work "


Also in the picture that you posted where you show the micrometer the clutch in the background has one spring with a collar not tightened down and the other appear to be tightened with the bolt on the springs but no collar. Is that just a test fit?
Where does the bolded comment about the judder springs needing to be moved to the third position in the slipper clutch come from? I have 950 street miles on my bike before being converted to a track bike should I expect the the measurements may be less than the 1mm needed?
 
#22 ·
Ok I think I see how this slipper clutch is supposed to work now. As I was looking at it and the pictures I forgot that when I put the clutch on the bike I will have installed the original clutch springs which w/o plates will be pushing the pressure plate away just based on spring height once the plates are installed then it will be the stacked height pushing also against the springs.


I'm ready to tackle this when the gasket comes in next week!!!!!
 
#23 ·
My YOYODYNE slipper worked perfectly at our last track day and no exploding disks!

One thing that I forgot to mention on the install was the fact that you WILL need to adjust your slack in the clutch cable.
 
#24 ·
Blacktriple said:
My YOYODYNE slipper worked perfectly at our last track day and no exploding disks!

One thing that I forgot to mention on the install was the fact that you WILL need to adjust your slack in the clutch cable.
No exploding disks but I did manage to blow up a bolt or two. :shock:

I finally got my clutch gasket from Triumph this weekend and began installation last night. The installation was almost complete when the fourth of the five spring bolts snapped while I was tightening the pressure plate. I had the torque wrench set to 10nm, which was what the stock bolts were torqued to. Seeing how much thinner the Yoyo bolts were than the stock ones I should have made an adjustment but he first 3 seamingly went fine. Upon removal of the pressure plate to reinstall the stock clutch, a second bolt snapped. I guess in using the stock setting I over-torqued the bolts them causing them to snap. :( :evil:

Just glad I didn't screw up the threads in the drum. So now I'm trying to get replacements for the bolts and collars.

Blacktriple did you manually tighten the pressure plate bolts?
 
#26 ·
I used a small torque wrench for my bicycle that went to 7NM and then just tightened a little more with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. the bolts didn't break. If I had a torque wrench that went to 10Nm I would have done so per the Triumph manual. I thought briefly that the bolts looked smaller. Where are you getting the bolts ? from Yoyodyne? Its not a big deal to change them out... What do you guys think? Should I change mine?
 
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