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Salvage Title - The "Cosmetic Damage Only" Claim.

9K views 39 replies 17 participants last post by  SV650sWanted 
#1 ·
So I am ashamed I am even asking this. Every fiber in me is telling me to avoid any salvage title like the plague, motorcycle and car/truck alike. But I wanted to get some of your opinions.

When someone posts their bike classified and says that it is a "salvage title but cosmetic damage only", is that really a thing? How can I be confident that it will be mechanically sound and ride straight and true? I am assuming there is no way to be sure, but I wanted to get some of your input since this will be my first motorcycle buy, and you guys are the experts. :wink3:

Since I am on a tight budget (About $5k), I have been browsing classifieds looking for a pre-owned 1st-2nd gen D675 or STR. And even though I feel I may already know the answer, that budget is the only reason why I would even take the time to ask.

So am I missing something?
 
#2 ·
Yes it's a thing. Insurance companies will very easily total out a bike for some broken plastic. That being said, there's an abundance of bikes without salvage title, so it would have to be a damn good deal for me to buy one. Or for use only for the track. $5k should easily get you a first gen. Maybe not a second gen though.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply Hokie! I guess I am kinda blown away that an insurance company would salvage just for some busted plastic. Not like cars/trucks then eh.

I suppose that is a relief and I shouldn't be quite as stand offish towards a motorcycle salvage. Knowing that the bike has been downed is a drag for sure, but as long as it has been repaired and is mechanically sound, rides straight/true, etc. I could kinda care less about the salvage other than re-sale value.

Any tips on what kind of inspections I should do, or tell tale signs to look for to make sure it has genuinely been salvaged for "cosmetic only" like they claim? I just know of basic stuff like checking for busted steering stoppers and whatnot.
 
#5 ·
Thanks Duc. I wouldn't buy it if I saw broken steering stops. But that's what I mean, looking for stuff like that to poke holes in their claim that it is a "cosmetic salvage".

Anything else that I should look for?
 
#6 ·
I got my 2014 Street Triple R with 2,400 miles and a salvage title for $6,400. The guy I bought it from purchased it from the dealer with a salvage title. I got the dealer's number, called them, and asked why it was a salvage title. They explained that the bike was on a test ride and the rider low-sided it. The crash messed up the plastics, rear sets, and bent the rear brake lever. They sent me pictures from the crash and they honestly didn't look that bad. But, sure enough, insurance totaled it and now it has a salvage title. So if you ask the right questions, you can get a crazy good deal. :thumbsup:
 
#8 ·
A broken steering stops not the end of the world. I got my bike for a great deal because of the broken steering stop and messed up plastic. My bike was low sided and judging by the wear on the tires it was the first time buddy tried turning right. If it's possible, look closely at the tire wear and pull the dipstick. Tires can show you riding styles and oil can show you maintenance habits. With a Salvage title I would always want to test ride just to make sure nothing is horribly wrong but with any used bike you always can always pick up a lemon.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for all the great feedback everyone! It has really put my mind at ease considering a salvaged bike as long as I do a thorough inspection.



Great tips Duc! Tire wear I have on my list to check, but I often forget to check the dipstick though. I'll have to bring my check list with me so that my rose tinted glasses don't distract me heh. And yeah, I won't be taking it home without a test ride first.

Yeah I paid 7k for a bike with like 700 miles on it.
Of course I've spent more than that on mods but salvage titles on bikes does not mean much. Even if it has been wrecked as long as the parts used arent junk I don't see an issue. Just make sure engine and frame are in good condition.
Good point. Personally I am not looking for a "project bike" to build. I want mine road worthy when I buy. But if it has been salvaged, I will be concerned about the frame being straight and true. If it has been dropped hard enough to tweak the frame I wouldn't consider buying. The only thing I can think of to check for frame stress is to look for flaked paint around the frame welds and similar stress signs. But some people can do really convincing cover up work. Other than that, a test ride is all I can think of to see if it's still straight. But even that might not show signs until you hit freeway speeds maybe. I guess you are still taking a risk on frame stress no matter how close you look.
 
#9 ·
Steering stops don't mean too much -- they're so flimsy on these bikes that it takes really very little to snap one off. That's why there's a market for beefier steering stop brackets for track usage.

Happy owner of a 2010 purchased with a salvage title right here. Dealer demo at a track day that was low sided, have all the dealer documentation to prove it.
 
#10 ·
Hey Psycho, I purchased a 13' from a Copart auction and it was involved in what looked like a rider that hit a curb and scratched the bike plastics on the right side. After investigating, the insurance company totaled the bike as the plastics, mirror, clipon, rear sets, upper fairing stay, brake master .... exhaust... Etc was deemed to be damaged over 8500$.
I was told that after the insurance files it a write-off it becomes a salvage title. Even though the bike is in perfect condition to be fixed with perfect steering stops it still holds the salvage title. I imported the bike into Canada and typically I would just inspect it and it would be road worthy- the transport dept. basically told me I couldn't road it unless it was inspected in the state it was salvaged-in. Which is this case is Georgia..... Just another experience to leverage in your next experience.
Ride safe!
 
#14 ·
My buddy's R1 was similar. Was stolen so the insurance company paid the original owner, then a year later it was recovered. Only damage was they jammed a screwdriver into the ignition. New ignition and it was basically brand new. My buddy paid 1/4 of it's value because the title says "theft recovery".
 
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#12 ·
I would personally inspect the bike before I buy a salvage. Just look for scratches on the main frame. You can have a scratch from a toothpick (as long as it scrapes off the paint) and it's totaled.

I've seen 2 totaled because of scratches about 1/2" long, all it did was scratch off the paint. BUT, you never know, the frame may be slightly twisted and not visible in pictures.
 
#17 ·
On my 3rd salvaged bike...


My 2011 675R, had a dent in the gas tank, and scratched bodywork, broken ram air tube.. Paid $5400 in 2012.. filled the dent on the tank & repainted bodywork.. bike is better than about any 2011 67%R you will find.


My 2012 1199S, salvage title... guy dumped it at a stop sign, broke the steering stop, scratched bodywork. guy replaced everything with new parts.. $12000, at the time a clean title bike was in the $17xxx range.


Some things are not that big of a deal, but you start talking a bike that was ridden into something, bent forks, broken wheel, cracked headstock is where I am like HELL NO!
 
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#18 ·
On my 3rd salvaged bike...

My 2011 675R, had a dent in the gas tank, and scratched bodywork, broken ram air tube.. Paid $5400 in 2012.. filled the dent on the tank & repainted bodywork.. bike is better than about any 2011 67%R you will find.

My 2012 1199S, salvage title... guy dumped it at a stop sign, broke the steering stop, scratched bodywork. guy replaced everything with new parts.. $12000, at the time a clean title bike was in the $17xxx range.

Some things are not that big of a deal, but you start talking a bike that was ridden into something, bent forks, broken wheel, cracked headstock is where I am like HELL NO!
It seems you have managed to do just fine with salvage titles. Anything minor I am willing to overlook.

I am working up an inspection list to take with me on potential buys. And after lurking on the forums for quite some time I have noticed that each generation has a few common/typical minor issues like bad batts, sensors, etc. Anything else you guys think I should add to my inspection list for 1st and 2nd Generations, both Daytonas and Street Trips?
 
#19 ·
as people have mentioned...


Steering stops on the lower triple
The steering stop tab on the frame itself
scratches and or marks on the frame & swingarm.
If they will let you, check the wiring connections on the rectifier/regulator... as burnt wiring is common, but can be remedied easy enough..
If it has an updated Rectifier.
Rust in the gas tank
 
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#20 ·
as people have mentioned...

Steering stops on the lower triple
The steering stop tab on the frame itself
scratches and or marks on the frame & swingarm.
If they will let you, check the wiring connections on the rectifier/regulator... as burnt wiring is common, but can be remedied easy enough..
If it has an updated Rectifier.
Rust in the gas tank
Thanks jdgun! Rust in the tank, forgot about that one. Not one I usually have to worry about coming from growing up on dirt bikes heh.

Now I just need to do price checks with and without labor for all this stuff so I know how much cash I can haggle with. Oh, and major service checks! I know the big pricey ones are 12k and 24k. I gotta do some more homework to get some more detail.
*runs to the forum search bar*

Once again, thanks for all the great feedback guys! This stuff is like gold in my eyes, being a new buyer. Truly invaluable input and genuinely appreciated!
 
#21 ·
What is your budget?


If you want can look for a GEM out here in Portland/Salem which would meet your criteria... I would try and do 09+ personally.
 
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#22 ·
What is your budget?

If you want can look for a GEM out here in Portland/Salem which would meet your criteria... I would try and do 09+ personally.
Very kind of you to offer! My budget is only about $5k max, unfortunately. Would normally be bigger but we need to set aside a pretty big chunk of our tax return to move closer to my wife's grandparents (her Grandad has really bad Alzheimers :frown2:). So Salem might be a bit far and an 09'+ (unless it had quite a few miles) a bit of a reach for my kind of budget lol. It would have to be a pretty insane deal for me to drive that far on my VERY modest budget. However, I have family in Medford so that might not be as much of a stretch as it sounds...

I was hoping to not have to go out of state if possible. Never bought a vehicle out of state before, so i'm not sure how much hassle it would be at DMV to get re-plated and registered. Especially with California's stupid emissions BS. My buddy bought a diesel truck in Oregon and had to sell it after a month or two because they wouldn't let him register it here in Cali. He had to eat a pretty big loss because of it.
 
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#23 ·
older bikes are not so much an issue.. have sold 2 bikes to guys in California and they did not report any issues with registering them.


$5000 for an 09 in good shape is NOT a hard find to be honest.
 
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#24 ·
older bikes are not so much an issue.. have sold 2 bikes to guys in California and they did not report any issues with registering them.

$5000 for an 09 in good shape is NOT a hard find to be honest.
Ah, good to know. Triumphs are somewhat rare around my parts, so i'm sure that involves a bit of inflation locally. Thanks again for the extra eyes, it is much appreciated =).
 
#28 ·
One more question, what is the deal with the EXUP valve? I keep seeing that referenced as a common issue in the repair/maint section but everyone talks about it being such a pain that they just remove it? I know it has something to do with the exhaust and controlling the back pressure but I am completely ignorant other than that lol.

An explanation would be great, as it sounds like it's something I should add to my buyers check list I have been making.
 
#30 ·
Another salvage here. Wrecked in the dealer, and another forum member bought it. He sold to me for a decent price.

If you can get to Phoenix, just check out our Craigslist for bikes. So many, so cheap.

Also, as for the exup, I finally disabled mine, but without a remap, I lost a lot of low end coming from stop signs. People here swear up and down it's only for noise, but my butt dyno says otherwise.
 
#31 ·
Another salvage here. Wrecked in the dealer, and another forum member bought it. He sold to me for a decent price.

If you can get to Phoenix, just check out our Craigslist for bikes. So many, so cheap.

Also, as for the exup, I finally disabled mine, but without a remap, I lost a lot of low end coming from stop signs. People here swear up and down it's only for noise, but my butt dyno says otherwise.
Thanks rsparky. Yeah CL is my bread and butter for buying used anything really. Triumphs are just not very common around my parts, and I don't want to settle for anything but a Daytona or Street Triple. Phoenix might be too much of a stretch for my modest budget, but we will see how desperate I get if I can't find the right fit closer to me heh. Thanks for the input on the EXUP valve as well.
 
#34 ·
Thanks man! Yeah I have been window shopping all over Cali. Found a few decent deals that are worth looking at. Not all salvaged either.

I am just outside the South gate of Yosemite National Park in central California. A little tourist mountain town called Oakhurst.
 
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#33 ·
I got mine cheap due to a bad exup and pinched breather hose.

Downed it a few years ago in an intersection. Scratched up the front and side plastics, and some assorted pieces. Nothing major at all. Was like 2500 in parts and labor. Check out what OEM parts cost, it adds up quickly, and if first gens are going for 5k, its a quick salvage.

The big turn off for me is scraped wind screens. Hard to scratch one without tumbling the bike.
 
#36 ·
No worries. Craigslist is where I see the majority of them. There are even a few dealerships that have the occasional salvaged bike for sale. There are quite a few salvaged bikes in the classifieds around my area. Then again the nearest big city to me is Fresno. Fresno's crime rate alone could account for a good portion of the recovered bikes for sale heh.
 
#39 ·
I would personally stay away from salvage anything. Even if it was repaired perfectly, you will struggle reselling it. Nobody keeps a vehicle "forever". Sure you can pick it up for a good price, but you'll be bending over when you decide to sell. I would only buy salvage if it had great documentation and the price is 50% of a comparable bike. Just my opinion, of course.

With a budget of $5k you should be able to easily obtain a clean 1st gen and most likely a 2nd for that matter.
 
#40 ·
I would personally stay away from salvage anything. Even if it was repaired perfectly, you will struggle reselling it. Nobody keeps a vehicle "forever". Sure you can pick it up for a good price, but you'll be bending over when you decide to sell. I would only buy salvage if it had great documentation and the price is 50% of a comparable bike. Just my opinion, of course.

With a budget of $5k you should be able to easily obtain a clean 1st gen and most likely a 2nd for that matter.
I'd buy salvaged, but that depends on the level of damage, if its been slammed head on into a solid object and is separated at the head-stock then pass on it. If its just been low-sided and could be fixed with $1000-1500 over the purchase price, go for it. I definitely wouldn't worry about resale value or selling it. If I bought a salvage bike it would be either a track bike or a street bike to ride without worrying about what happens to it other than normal maintenance.

OP, as ssbfgc your budget will certainly allow for a used clean titled example of a 675, easily.
 
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