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Trading the Street In for Daytona

1K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  luciano136 
#1 ·
Hey All,

So after not too long in the saddle of my rather custom Street, the nagging voice telling me I should have gotten that extra 20hp and fairings is winning out.. After my latest and 3rd track day with it I think ive started to look for a Daytona.

My question is this, If I intend on pushing this bike hard. How many km's is too many? Price is obviously a factor, but also because I have full woodcraft cases and rearsets that I want to swap over, so Im looking most likely at something pre 2012.

Currently watching a 2011 R with a full akropovic setup and gb protection, but 35,000kms on the clock. And a 2012 standard with 9,500km's on the clock and a quick shifter. They both appear to be well looked after and serviced.. What would the sage advice of those here be, considering they are just north of a grand appart? (I also have an Ohlins TTX rear shock and an R6 braided line brake setup with an R1 master, so could almost be r-spec with the standard..)

Thanks in advance,
Sam
 
#2 ·
I have a '12 675R with 21,000 miles (nearly 35,000km) and it runs like a champ. As long as the oil/fluids have been changed regularly and the normal service performed, the bikes hold up really well.

x
 
#3 ·
As long as the oil/fluids have been changed regularly and the normal service performed, the bikes hold up really well.
This. I'd much rather have a higher-mileage bike that's been looked after than a low or even zero-mileage bike that's been neglected. The 2011 sounds like the one I'd probably go for, especially with the full Akra, but the higher mileage can play in your favor as a negotiating point to further whittle the price down.
 
#4 ·
I would personally go with a lower miles bike unless some major repairs have already been done on the higher mileage one.

The motor seems pretty bullet proof but other parts eventually break. My stator fried when I had 20,xxx miles taking out the R/R in the process and it just happened again at 47k mi. Around 40k I installed a new clutch and a few thousand miles later my waterpump broke (one assembly with oil pump in the middle of the bike; very expensive fix). I also recently installed new front rotors and pads (not cheap either). So, I definitely sunk way too much money in this bike and the savings you realize upon purchase can evaporate very quickly.
 
#5 ·
I would personally go with a lower miles bike unless some major repairs have already been done on the higher mileage one.

The motor seems pretty bullet proof but other parts eventually break. My stator fried when I had 20,xxx miles taking out the R/R in the process and it just happened again at 47k mi. Around 40k I installed a new clutch and a few thousand miles later my waterpump broke (one assembly with oil pump in the middle of the bike; very expensive fix). I also recently installed new front rotors and pads (not cheap either). So, I definitely sunk way too much money in this bike and the savings you realize upon purchase can evaporate very quickly.
The electrical system prior to 2011/12 did have some issues. I've not heard much from the 2011/12 models.

That something breaks at 40,000 miles is a different issue than what is unstable at 20k.

Brake pads and rotors are disposable items. I'm on my third set of rotors and haven't counted the pads. (this is like saying "my oil needed changing - so watch out!!!!)

Like all mechanical things, much depends on the quality of maintenance and the luck of the draw.

x
 
#7 ·
They both seem to have full service history, so will likely both be fine. It's actually the older higher km's R spec that's 1,500$ more.. over here were heading into winter though so I'm sure prices can be knocked down a fair bit.

Thanks for the replies and advice all! I suppose I just want to know that I won't be spending a fair amount of money on something that will shit itself after some decent track time..
 
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