I replaced my counter sprocket seal using tips from another member (simingx) and watching some videos on YouTube. Here's simingx's post from the ==update==Is there a How to for the Countershaft sprocket oil seal on 675R ? thread.
Tools required:
Other materials:
Removal:
1. Remove sprocket cover (I keep mine off so this step was skipped).
2. Bend the washer tab away from the sprocket nut. Tab washer can be used again by bending in another place.
3. Remove the sprocket nut (apply pressure on the rear brake to break the torque, NEVER REMOVE SPROCKET NUT IN GEAR).
4. Remove the tab washer.
5. Loosen chain to give slack to remove the counter sprocket.
6. Remove counter sprocket.
7. Drill some holes in the seal. Be careful when doing so not to damage anything behind it. The bearings have a cover to it so if the drill bit goes all the way through, you'll hit that and not the bearings.
8. Thread in some self tapping screws.
9. Remove seal by pulling on screws.
Installation:
1. Clean the area behind the seal for any metal shavings that may have gone through.
2. Apply some grease on the seal.
3. Press the seal into casing evenly. Be patient and take your time or you'll damage the seal and have to replace it again. I got it started by pressing it in by hand, then using the bottom of the handle (which is rubber) of my hammer to push it in. Once it was in majority of the way, I used the PVC pipe to push in the rest of the way.
4. Clean the area of all the lube/dirt build up.
5. Install sprocket.
6. Install tab washer. My old one was already used twice from the dealership replacing the CS Seal and probably could've been re-used but I opted for a new one.
7. Install sprocket nut.
8. Install chain, remove slack, and torque to sprocket nut to 85 Nm (63 ft lbs) [apply pressure on rear brake to torque].
9. Bend tab on tab washer. I'm sure there's different methods, but I used channel locks to bend the tab.
10. Adjust slack on chain - 1.1" to 1.5" and torque rear axle nut to 110 Nm (81 ft lbs).
Tools required:
- 36mm socket
- 1/2" drive ratchet & breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Hammer
- Drill & drill bits
- Flathead screwdriver
- Channellock pliers
Other materials:
- New seal(s), spare just in case you mess up - Oil Shaft Seal 35mm x 62mm x 7mm Double Lip - VITON
- Grease
- PVC piping
Removal:
1. Remove sprocket cover (I keep mine off so this step was skipped).
2. Bend the washer tab away from the sprocket nut. Tab washer can be used again by bending in another place.
3. Remove the sprocket nut (apply pressure on the rear brake to break the torque, NEVER REMOVE SPROCKET NUT IN GEAR).
4. Remove the tab washer.
5. Loosen chain to give slack to remove the counter sprocket.
6. Remove counter sprocket.
7. Drill some holes in the seal. Be careful when doing so not to damage anything behind it. The bearings have a cover to it so if the drill bit goes all the way through, you'll hit that and not the bearings.
8. Thread in some self tapping screws.
9. Remove seal by pulling on screws.
Installation:
1. Clean the area behind the seal for any metal shavings that may have gone through.
2. Apply some grease on the seal.
3. Press the seal into casing evenly. Be patient and take your time or you'll damage the seal and have to replace it again. I got it started by pressing it in by hand, then using the bottom of the handle (which is rubber) of my hammer to push it in. Once it was in majority of the way, I used the PVC pipe to push in the rest of the way.
4. Clean the area of all the lube/dirt build up.
5. Install sprocket.
6. Install tab washer. My old one was already used twice from the dealership replacing the CS Seal and probably could've been re-used but I opted for a new one.
7. Install sprocket nut.
8. Install chain, remove slack, and torque to sprocket nut to 85 Nm (63 ft lbs) [apply pressure on rear brake to torque].
9. Bend tab on tab washer. I'm sure there's different methods, but I used channel locks to bend the tab.
10. Adjust slack on chain - 1.1" to 1.5" and torque rear axle nut to 110 Nm (81 ft lbs).