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Attack Triples On the Way, Which Steering Damper??

3K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  Kevin7909 
#1 · (Edited)
So the bike is going to GMD Computrack for the Attack Triples and geometry setup. I already have Penske internals in the front and penske adjustable in the rear. Can't...Freaking...Wait. Speaking with Kates at Loudon last weekend he told me what people typically experience without them and then with them. I completely got it and experiences exactly what he was talking about. The bike tips in very fast but it takes so much effort to keep tight lines in hard turns. Also the front does really feel a bit numb.

So my question is what damper are you guys now going with? Is Scott's with the adapter the only option? I currently have a GPR V4 which may be for sale very soon. Are there any other options? I saw someone post that they're using a pitbull setup. I have 2 other dampers I still need to sell from my MV Agusta Brutale (Matris) but the stroke lengths are all different and I'd obviously need the right mounting kit.

I also still have the key, and know it doesn't fit on these so I need to order the Woodcraft kit.

Any thoughts are appreciated!
 
#3 ·
I've got the Scotts and really like it, although I've never noticed a performance difference among decent dampers.

You might ask TJ about other options. I think they've used Ohlins dampers on Riders Discount bikes.
Thanks I did. Looks like Scotts is the only options and they've been waiting on the special mounts to be machined for 2 months. I may have to hold off on installing the Attacks until I can be sure if there are no other options. Next race weekend is June 16th and I def dont want to race without a damper. Grr...
 
#5 ·
Ok, so I have a 2007, and I just had the infamous Peter Kates of GMD Computrac install the Attack Triples and do full race geometry. At the same time I installed the Woodcraft Ignition bypass. It's so weird and cool to not have the key!

So Peter had in stock the custom base for the Scotts damper. I just went to order the Frame Bracket and actual damper, and yup Scotts is out of stock on both. $HIT. I have Race Practice on Thursday and races on Friday & Saturday! Does anyone know of anyone who may have this stuff for sale??
 
#7 ·
I use the attack with a fabricated key fob mount, bump stops that i fabricated, and an ohlins damper with modified oem fairings. The carbon inserts touch the attack with the insert I am using so I had to cut slots into my inserts.

The damper will not mount like the RD bike or without modifications/fabrication if you are using the oem fairings with the headlights in place. If you remove the headlights you will likely be able to mount the same damper size that TJ used on the bike the way they did. Depends on if you want to remove the headlights for track day. If you do that then no mods will be needed to the bike that I can think of off hand, but don't hold me to that.

If you plan to keep your headlights then you can make it work but there are compromises you have to consider. Also, the insert you are using will likely make a difference because it will affect bump stop width and this will affect the stroke length needed to make the damper work and not be the limit to your minimum turning radius.

Also, if you plan to use an ohlins you will likely need the 68mm(TJ uses the longer version on the RD bike because it's mounted differently) and you will either have to fabricate a mount that moves the frame mounting location about 1.5" forward, or you will likely need to cut the damper.

I decided to cut my damper. It will just work within the constraints of the area between the frame mount and the radiator and having the maximum turning radius at the stops be tolerable.

I also modified a damper fork clamp to work without binding and a few other bits so the damper won't jump up and down with the bike front end movement. Basically if you look at the RD damper you will see a little black rubber washer. This is to help damp the dampers up and down movement. I have done something similar but I believe what I have done will over more upward movement which was necessary for my mods to work.

I also use a fabricated triple stand insert that will just barely fit well enough to lift the front wheel without touching the damper mount.

When you get it all mocked up, be sure that you can keep the damper on one side of the bike. What can happen is that you find the nice position only to see that the damper moves through the center of the bike while you are close to center steering. At this location the ratio of steering movement to damper movement is for all practical purposes infinity, which is to say that the damper will barely move. This means it isn't doing anything. You want the damper movement to be as linear as possible with handlebar movement especially around center position which is usually where u need damping the most. If further information is needed I would be happy to help.

Disclaimer:
If you decide to fab something similar it can work but you will need to know what you are doing or bad things could happen.
 
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