13+ ss build. tuning, suspension etc - Page 3 - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #21 of 44 Old 03-30-16, 12:37
wavrdr
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I would just keep whatever forks you currently have. Talk to a local suspension guy and potentially move to a performance valve kit and springs.

Thermosman suspension in Georgia is probably one of the best guys to send your stuff to IMHO.

Depending on your level of riding, your current setup may suffice, but as you get faster, suspension become more of a neccessity.

Iirc, Zemke went quicker on the ohlins than the K-Tech, but I could be wrong.

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post #22 of 44 Old 03-30-16, 12:40
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Also, I have the factory 675r Ohlins carts in a box. If you do some research and they fit, I'll sell them for a good price.

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post #23 of 44 Old 03-30-16, 15:01 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wavrdr View Post
I would just keep whatever forks you currently have. Talk to a local suspension guy and potentially move to a performance valve kit and springs.

Thermosman suspension in Georgia is probably one of the best guys to send your stuff to IMHO.

Depending on your level of riding, your current setup may suffice, but as you get faster, suspension become more of a neccessity.

Iirc, Zemke went quicker on the ohlins than the K-Tech, but I could be wrong.
I don't have forks! lol this is a ground up build. I got a good deal on what I have so, its good in one way and of course bad in others.

The reason why I ask is because on Ohlins website they list nothing for '13+ 675..

My pace as an expert is on par with the top 5. But my lack of $$ is what separates me most of the time, hard to compete on tires with 2-3 sprints and pump fuel most of the time..

I think what I will do is buy a set of factory Triumph Ohlins and go from there... hopefully they are as good or better then stock showa forks with the race tech gold valve kit that I had in my '13 636.

I wanted to stay local with my suspension ppl TSE, but from what I've read Thermosman seems to be the guy to go with.. downfall is not local

Last edited by bruce177; 03-30-16 at 15:06. Reason: g
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post #24 of 44 Old 03-30-16, 15:10
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TSE are good people. You probably know Carl Soltisz....he and I have raced each other several times....both as amateur and expert. Try and find a used set of 675r Ohlins and go from there. I think they'll do you good!

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post #25 of 44 Old 03-30-16, 15:15
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http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=205481

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post #26 of 44 Old 03-30-16, 16:21 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wavrdr View Post
TSE are good people. You probably know Carl Soltisz....he and I have raced each other several times....both as amateur and expert. Try and find a used set of 675r Ohlins and go from there. I think they'll do you good!
Thanks! yes Carl and I race together as well. Typically he is a couple 10'ths quicker then I am, he has not run over me a few times crashing out ahead of him, he's a good rider..lol so you have an idea of our pace.

I actually just finally paid for an entire front end (15 mins ago) that was actually on my bike. I missed the front end by a couple hours and bought what he had left. I got the Ohlins forks,brembo brakes, triples and front axle shipped for $750.. and I just got off the phone with thermosman. after he gets it to spec and refresh about another 5-600. He said over the years they have made strides with the 30mm kit and that is pretty good. So fingers crossed !

I appreciate your input!
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post #27 of 44 Old 03-30-16, 20:15
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Ohlins Nix30 cartridges for the 675 forks -- FGK209 -- are literally exactly the same spec as the 675R Ohlins forks -- FL9060. I'm looking at the Ohlins spec sheets right now, exact same internals. Same Rebound and Compression circuits -- C4 and R3. Just some info for anyone that may think the aftermarket stuff is better or worse than the OEM stuff -- they're on the same level.

2010 Daytona 675
2005 Ducati 999

Last edited by aftriathlete; 03-30-16 at 21:56. Reason: Incorrectly wrote C3 and R4 for damping circuits.
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post #28 of 44 Old 03-30-16, 21:02 Thread Starter
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Ohlins Nix30 cartridges for the 675 forks -- FGK209 -- are literally exactly the same spec as the 675R Ohlins forks -- FL9060. I'm looking at the Ohlins spec sheets right now, exact same internals. Same Rebound and Compression circuits -- C3 and R4. Just some info for anyone that may think the aftermarket stuff is better or worse than the OEM stuff -- they're on the same level.
That is word for word what I heard a couple hours ago..
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post #29 of 44 Old 03-31-16, 15:19 Thread Starter
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Forgive me if this is easy understood, but for me i'm a little confused on the race ecu / stock ecu tuning.

Race ecu:

-Pre programmed raised rev limiter
-Pre programmed to work with with the other kit parts (exhaust, cams etc)
-Only way to tune the ECU is to get the TRACS software?

-- If you don't have the TRACS software you have to get a PowerCommander or alike to tune the air/fuel?
-Ignition module controls ....? Lower the rev limiter? and launch control
Factory quick shifter still works.. fine?


Stock ecu:
Stock rev limiter
Needs a Pc5 (or alike) to tune the air/fuel?
Ignition module does what at this point? Launch control??
(I thought the ignition module was for the quick shifter on my 636? )
Factory quick shifter still works.. fine?

I'm trying to figure out what exactly to do here. I guess the only downfall I see to purchasing the Race Ecu is having to purchase TRACS as well?

Trying to educate myself before I place my order!
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post #30 of 44 Old 03-31-16, 15:31
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The race ECU should come with software, but I've never used it on a 3rd gen so I don't know how much adjustability there is. I'm guessing very little, since the race ECU is still locked. The PCV would tune air/fuel and the ignition module would change the rev limiter and also timing, since you don't want the race ECU's timing settings if you're not doing kit cams.

Yes, stock ECU needs PCV or similar for air/fuel. An ignition module isn't necessary if you're keeping the rev limit & timing stock.

The QS can go directly to the PCV, or you can use the OE QS plug, which will still work with either ECU. My tuner recommends using the OE plug since it cuts fuel and spark. The PCV only cuts one of them, I forget which.

The main benefit to the race ECU is ditching the ABS pump & hardware. If you're OK either manually turning it off every time you cycle the ignition, or you'll leave the pump and cap off the lines, a stock ECU should be fine.
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