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post #11 of 44 Old 03-28-16, 17:11 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wavrdr View Post
Bolt on mods-full exhaust, filter
Engine mods-Degreed cams, springs, milled head and thinner head gasket
Suspension mods-revalve/respring forks, attacks
Tuning mods-PcV, Ign mod and a dyno with a competent tuner

This should get you 90% to where you want to be. Bolt ons and suspension will get you close, then do the SS build on the engine.

Good luck!

Bam! Down and dirty .. I like it. I have been reading over the kit manual and it says you have to have the race cams to have the race valve springs?

Thought I read something on here that the valve kit was a must for racing being they live up on the higher end?
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post #12 of 44 Old 03-29-16, 01:03
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Unless it's different for 3rd gen, I know on 2nd-gen the kit valves and cams are not required to run the kit valve springs. They are all designed to work together, so obviously I wouldn't run the cams without the valves and valve springs. But if all you wanted to run was the valve springs to stay SS (my plan) then dropping the kit springs in there will be an upgrade over the stock springs.

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post #13 of 44 Old 03-29-16, 01:07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wavrdr View Post
Bolt on mods-full exhaust, filter
Engine mods-Degreed cams, springs, milled head and thinner head gasket
Suspension mods-revalve/respring forks, attacks
Tuning mods-PcV, Ign mod and a dyno with a competent tuner

This should get you 90% to where you want to be. Bolt ons and suspension will get you close, then do the SS build on the engine.

Good luck!
Also, all due respect because I don't race a 3rd-gen and you probably do, so why would you need the stock Ohlins forks revalved? I think this has been discussed at length that the OEM Ohlins is not cheap, it has good valving out of the box. You COULD want it revalved to potentially make it ideal for a very specific kind of track, but not because the stock valving isn't good. For instance, my OEM TTX shock off a 11 675R is ideally valved for the type of track I race on -- very bumpy and tight. You could potentially want a different compression and rebound stack though if your suspension guy says so.

EDIT: From all my time trolling the forum here and looking around the interwebz, the one issue the OEM Ohlins sounds like it might have just has to do with quality control of assembly -- I believe some people found their fork oil levels to be different between the two tubes and out of spec. But the compression and rebound circuits are not poor quality.

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post #14 of 44 Old 03-29-16, 01:07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aftriathlete View Post
Unless it's different for 3rd gen, I know on 2nd-gen the kit valves and cams are not required to run the kit valve springs. They are all designed to work together, so obviously I wouldn't run the cams without the valves and valve springs. But if all you wanted to run was the valve springs to stay SS (my plan) then dropping the kit springs in there will be an upgrade over the stock springs.
Not different, you got it right. Springs are required for cams, cams aren't required for springs. The kit springs are cryo-treated and are recommended for race use.
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post #15 of 44 Old 03-29-16, 14:07
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Springs are a must if you're racing and don't want to drop a valve. I wouldn't worry about running the cams and/or valves.

The stock ohlins stuff is good, but if you're looking for a properly prepared expert level race bike valving is a must. Most of the stock stuff has differing components to cut down on costs. It still works and works well at that, but if you're competing in the upper level of your region, things like valving and triple clamps will help tremendously.

All just pieces to the large puzzle of racing.

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post #16 of 44 Old 03-29-16, 14:13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aftriathlete View Post
Also, all due respect because I don't race a 3rd-gen and you probably do, so why would you need the stock Ohlins forks revalved? I think this has been discussed at length that the OEM Ohlins is not cheap, it has good valving out of the box. You COULD want it revalved to potentially make it ideal for a very specific kind of track, but not because the stock valving isn't good. For instance, my OEM TTX shock off a 11 675R is ideally valved for the type of track I race on -- very bumpy and tight. You could potentially want a different compression and rebound stack though if your suspension guy says so.

EDIT: From all my time trolling the forum here and looking around the interwebz, the one issue the OEM Ohlins sounds like it might have just has to do with quality control of assembly -- I believe some people found their fork oil levels to be different between the two tubes and out of spec. But the compression and rebound circuits are not poor quality.
And FWIW, I raced a 2006 chassis with an Ohlins TTX and Racetech valved/sprung forks to 2 national amateur championships before ultimately switching over to gas.

When I purchased the 2013 I currently race, it already had been reworked suspension wise by Thermosman. Gas Ohlins carts in the forks, revalved shock with hyd preload adjuster, rear link and attack triples. I have raced bare bones and now fully set up. Both work, one just works better.....

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post #17 of 44 Old 03-29-16, 15:52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wavrdr View Post
And FWIW, I raced a 2006 chassis with an Ohlins TTX and Racetech valved/sprung forks to 2 national amateur championships before ultimately switching over to gas.

When I purchased the 2013 I currently race, it already had been reworked suspension wise by Thermosman. Gas Ohlins carts in the forks, revalved shock with hyd preload adjuster, rear link and attack triples. I have raced bare bones and now fully set up. Both work, one just works better.....

Yeah I'm on a 2010 with aftermarket NIX30 cartridges in the front, OEM TTX in the rear with a ride height clevis added (though admittedly it's just stayed adjusted all the way to its shortest setting since it's been on there considering it made the shock 5mm longer), TRS rear link, and modified OEM triples with 28mm offset (they still look OEM!). So my setup is somewhat similar, though I would love to try gas carts out some time.


It makes a difference too though that I'm racing on the same track all year, so setup changes are very minor if any from round to round, we just switch directions.

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post #18 of 44 Old 03-29-16, 19:08
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Sounds like you have a nice setup. The gas works well, but you won't notice a difference until the last 5-10mm of stroke vs non gas carts.

I'd stick with what you have, I'm sure it works stellar!

The only reason I initially went to gas is that I was able to basically steal two full sets of forks with Traxxion AK gas carts and a plethora of springs from brammo. When I say steal, I mean like $400 a set!

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post #19 of 44 Old 03-29-16, 21:50 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wavrdr View Post
Springs are a must if you're racing and don't want to drop a valve. I wouldn't worry about running the cams and/or valves.

The stock ohlins stuff is good, but if you're looking for a properly prepared expert level race bike valving is a must. Most of the stock stuff has differing components to cut down on costs. It still works and works well at that, but if you're competing in the upper level of your region, things like valving and triple clamps will help tremendously.

All just pieces to the large puzzle of racing.
So what do you suggest for internals? I have never had Ohlins anything before. I thought I read somewhere from Riders Discount (TJ?) the the factory stuff was pretty good and that Zemke actually went faster on the forks (assuming they sprung it for him)?

I can go either way, I have no forks at all.. I've also heard to stay away from the 30nix kit?

I'd rather not spend $1500 on a factory Ohlins/675r front end to dump another $1500(or whatever the internals cost)

Ps: Thanks for clearing up the valve springs question! Thanks guys
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post #20 of 44 Old 03-29-16, 21:53 Thread Starter
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There is also a set of 2012 stock forks with ak-20 kit on eBay right now.. $1000( I have 2013)
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