The Definitive 675 Charging Diagnostic/Upgrade Thread - Page 85 - Triumph675.Net Forums
 
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post #841 of 941 Old 12-05-12, 00:04
Bamboo671
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I have the stator and r/r off because I have to do some re-wiring from some fried connectors. I ran some checks on both units and they check good but visibly the stator has some burnt-ness to a coil or two. Soooo, my question is if the stator checks good but the there are a couple coils showing burnt is my stator indeed good or on its way out?

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post #842 of 941 Old 12-05-12, 01:18
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It's normal for some of the coils above the oil level to look darker. This does not indicate that they are burnt in anyway, just that they get hot, which is normal.
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post #843 of 941 Old 12-05-12, 09:42
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Sweet thanks Mac! Was worried for a little bit! So paranoid with these things.

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post #844 of 941 Old 02-13-13, 15:41
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I found that in my D675 someone instaled R/R from GSXR 1000 '04, could be problem that battery is'n charging?
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post #845 of 941 Old 03-26-13, 18:02
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Once again this site has helped me out; thanks for the instructions on how to test the charging system. For 4 months i have heard this weird noise comming from my stator, when started cold; then would disappear after operating temp...this noise all started after having my R/R's replacement by the dealer. So this week i got stranded; push starts but would die in the middle of the road, without a volt/ohm i assumed its the battery should have known that once its running the charging system is enough to keep me going....2 successful quick push starts and then dies. Got a new battery, checked charging to batt. w/ only 12.4v showing i hopped on and drive it 12 miles got me home safely. Followed the test procedure in the first page; hoping praying its the R/R so i can take it back for a free replacement, well tested the output voltage in the stator. 1-2 24v, 1-3 24v, 2-3 0.1V . Just my luck i had a spare stator from ebay,,,such a nightmare w/ them magnets. As i removed the covers, I see some metal pcs. all around as i assess my woodcraft cover w/ no sign of this comming from anywhere; but one of the big peice i found seem to be the same aluminum metal shaving of the WC case cover so as the color. Ive examined and noticed the coil wires are fried in diffrent post; ive also noticed gunk build up in the drum area and cleaned that as well. 2 hours later (coz im careful not wanting to cause internal damage in the wiring system) w/ the HID lights off im getting 14.10V @ the battery. Lesson learned do not ignore noises; im still baffled where these metal pcs came from. Thanks d'crosse for the info as electrical stuff is my weakness.

Last edited by toxidomask; 03-26-13 at 20:03. Reason: Spelling, punctuations.
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post #846 of 941 Old 03-27-13, 11:31
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Okay so now I'm getting pissed and I am at the end of my diagnostic capabilities, please help! My bike won't start. I turn on the ignition, let it sit ofr 10+ minutes (stupid temperature sensitive Ballistic EVO2 battery) and when I press that starter button all I get is a loud click then the ECU resets and the bike does its dial up modem contacting the mother ship routine all over again. I've put the battery on a Deltran Battery Tender Jr, I've kept the battery indoors over night to get it to the ambient temp in the house, I've checked the battery with a multi meter (strong 13.35 amps), I've replaced teh starter relay and main fuse (both were probably fine butit was an inexpensive enough fix and took 10 minutes) and I've had the R/R replaced under manufacturer recall at teh dealership. Why won't my bike start?

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post #847 of 941 Old 03-27-13, 12:26
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so lets see if I can help; you said you turn on the key for 10 minutes?, that just drains the battery with head lights/dash lights on.... once you turn the ignition with a full charged battery it should start.... you said amps? not voltage, as our battery needs >12.6Volts so you might wanna double check. not sure how old your battery on your bike.... it sounds like a battery not having enough juice to start it......if all else fails you can push start the bike (1st gear dump the clutch, i find it difficult to push start our bikes without help of a 2nd person, gave me an asthma attack), hopefully it keeps running; if you have a good charging system your bike should run ok, check output voltage to battery while its running. you should be around >13.4Volts output. This does not mean your battery is good and holding charge, just that it tells you your charging system is good and is whats keeping the bike running. you can load test your battery; but not sure how to do it on motorcycles compaired to cars.
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post #848 of 941 Old 03-27-13, 12:45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toxidomask View Post
so lets see if I can help; you said you turn on the key for 10 minutes?, that just drains the battery with head lights/dash lights on.... once you turn the ignition with a full charged battery it should start.... you said amps? not voltage, as our battery needs >12.6Volts so you might wanna double check. not sure how old your battery on your bike.... it sounds like a battery not having enough juice to start it......if all else fails you can push start the bike (1st gear dump the clutch, i find it difficult to push start our bikes without help of a 2nd person, gave me an asthma attack), hopefully it keeps running; if you have a good charging system your bike should run ok, check output voltage to battery while its running. you should be around >13.4Volts output. This does not mean your battery is good and holding charge, just that it tells you your charging system is good and is whats keeping the bike running. you can load test your battery; but not sure how to do it on motorcycles compaired to cars.

I typed amps when I meant volts. Yes its a new battery (bought it towards teh end of the summer and had it smart charged using the model specific Ballistic EVO smart charger at the dealership from where I purchased it. After they charged it last time, it started and operated just fine. I rode for about a week then the weather got colder and the bike sat for about a week then I had this starting problems. It will start when bump started (my driveway is on an incline) but will not start with the starter button. The batery's charge is fine and these Ballistic batteries are supposed to be able to start right up even if the bike sits for a full year.

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post #849 of 941 Old 03-27-13, 13:10
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Still sounds like a low battery. The only other possibility is a bad starter. I'm 100% sure it's the battery however.
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post #850 of 941 Old 03-27-13, 13:36
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That's what I figured but after reading the strong charge from the battery on the multi meter I assumed it had to be something else. This sucks. I'm about to switch back to a lead acid battery.

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