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Old 12-02-12, 16:15   #1
kevinoneill
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Default R/R Test Results: Need interpretation, Bike wouldn't start then magically did...

Followed these tests...
The Definitive 675 Charging Diagnostic/Upgrade Thread

Results below. But short back story. Bike didn't start 1 day (few weeks back), turned over once, got a check engine light, oil light, i thought I had seen the flickering dash on previous rides which I read was an indication of the faulty R/R. So I cursed a few times. Did all the checks, results below. And it appeared the Regulator was giving bad results (i think, please see my question below).

So I decided to start it up for no real reason, confident it wouldn't. And with the Regulator disconnected it started. So I reconnected it, and it still started up. WTF??

I don't understand, I don't know if maybe a faulty connection? And disconnecting and reconnecting smoothed it out? Maybe it was extra cold the few days I tried to start it a few weeks back when it didn't start and it was grumpy? Little baffled. Any thoughts?

Battery - results good
Ignition off 13.08V
Iginition on, high beams on 12.37V
Running (very suprised it started, read on) 14.5V

Stator - results good
All read 0.2 Ohms
Checked against the engine ground, all read ZERO

R/R - results bad? I think...?
Results vary pending which way i run leads. I don't know what this means.

Using the RED on the 3 Pins, the 2 BLACK on the 4pin read ZERO
Using the BLACK on the 3 Pins, the 2 RED on the 4pin read ZERO

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Old 12-02-12, 17:52   #2
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Check my post in response to yours in the diagnostics thread.
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Old 12-02-12, 18:33   #3
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Quote:
You should read some sort of resistance when you run the test. Reading a short means the R/R is bad.
Is it normal to read the shorts on different wires pending which way I route them?
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Old 12-02-12, 21:49   #4
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If anyone can confirm the reversal of the ZERO's on the R/R would be expected, I want to go ahead and order a beefier one soon.

Prob this guy.

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...ctifier-MOSFET
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Old 12-03-12, 15:37   #5
Ruby Racing
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That's the old R/R. Get yourself a new one under the recent recall.
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To read about the transformation click > Project Trixie Transformation

For comparison photo of old R/R with new improved R/R under recall of 2012 click > R/R Comparison Photos
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Old 12-03-12, 16:00   #6
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Your not talking about the MOSFET being an old model are you? What is on my bike is the old one Triumph factory one.

Nearest dealer is pretty far away, don't know if I'm up for it. May purchase the MOSFET if I can feel comfortable that is the problem.
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Old 12-03-12, 16:26   #7
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What you have pictured is the old R/R. Check a topic I posted a couple of weeks back which shows the old and new side by side. And why buy a new one when Triumph are replacing them free wether failed or not? Ring your dealer with the bike VIN and check if yours is included. Pretty sure it will be.
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Old 12-03-12, 16:50   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruby Racing View Post
...And why buy a new one when Triumph are replacing them free wether failed or not? Ring your dealer with the bike VIN and check if yours is included. Pretty sure it will be.
^ This. Triumph's unit is of the latest, proper design. Why are you so hellbent on not using it?
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Old 12-03-12, 16:51   #9
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Thanks, I actually saw your post the other day. I believe my VIN is included, its just a matter of logistics.

It would cost me more to get my bike out to the dealer (time + money) than it would just to buy a beefier after market one online and do it myself.

Dealer is 1.5 hrs. away, if it was in town, no problem.
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Old 12-03-12, 16:52   #10
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I'm more hell bent on understanding my R/R resistance results than anything else. I don't know if I'm not stating my question correctly or if no one knows a sure answer.
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