The Definitive 675 Charging Diagnostic/Upgrade Thread - Page 84 - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #831 of 958 Old 10-17-12, 18:20
momostallion
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something in 07 d675 died (~6k miles) i had a new battery and mosfet RR sitting around so i decided i would finally do this install.
while i testing my stator, i get a beep (or continuity) when testing resistance from any stator wire to ground so i take it my stator is done for.

i decided to stop by the dealer today to get a quote and he looked up my vin#. my 2007 was covered under warranty for RR so i guess that's neat. i'm still SOL on the stator which was $450 or something around there.

i think im going to put the bike back together enough to test the stator's output voltage while running.
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post #832 of 958 Old 10-17-12, 20:32
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here are my numbers:

Record your battery voltage under the follow conditions
1) Ignition off, unloaded battery. 12.58 V
2) Ignition on, headlights on, not running 12.36 V (no headlight hooked up right now)
3) Bike started, running at idle 12.1 V at idle. 12.3 V @ 4k RPM


Rectifier/Regulator
With your meter set to read resistance (use a diode test if the your multi-meter has one), test from each pin of the three pin plug, to both the black/red (positive) & black/white (negative) wired pins of the 4-pin plug
i didnt really get this step:
stator pin 1 to RR red pin 1 -0.L, RR red pin 2 - 0.L, RR black pin 1 - 9.6 mOhm, rr black pin 2 - 9.6 mOhm
stator pin 2 to RR red pin 1 -0.L, RR red pin 2 - 0.L, RR black pin 1 - 10 mOhm, rr black pin 2 - 10 mOhm
stator pin 3 to RR red pin 1 -0.L, RR red pin 2 - 0.L, RR black pin 1 - 10.9 mOhm, rr black pin 2 - 10.9 mOhm


Stator Test
Measure between the three respective combinations of the three pins:
1-2 0.5 ohm
2-3 0.5 ohm
3-1 0.5 ohm

check from any one pin to the engine ground terminal:
1.3 ohms :(

voltage output test of the stator with engine running:
1-2 2.5 V idle | 2.5 V @ 4k RPM
2-3 4.7 V idle | 14 V @ 4k RPM
3-1 4.6 V idle | 12.7 V @ 4k RPM

Last edited by momostallion; 10-17-12 at 20:38.
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post #833 of 958 Old 10-17-12, 21:23
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pulled the stator. i guess ricks is the best option for fair price replacement?


IMG_0053 by momostallion, on Flickr


IMG_0052 by momostallion, on Flickr

Last edited by momostallion; 10-18-12 at 07:48.
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post #834 of 958 Old 12-01-12, 09:09
Bamboo671
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So we know that the FH012AA R/R works but they have been replaced it with a newer model, FH020AA. Think I would have any issues using it? Also, does anyone know where I can get the wiring kit from. My current FH008 R/R is good but the connectors are fried as well as the fuse. Looking to get a new R/R if I can't find the wiring kit and connectors.

1997 YZF100R/Thunderace - She committed suicide 15Mar07!
2008 Daytona 675 - She was murdered 30Jan13
2013 Daytona 675R - Sexy reincarnation 15Mar13!
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post #835 of 958 Old 12-02-12, 16:14
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Test results interpretation

Results below. But short back story. Bike didn't start 1 day, i thought I had seen the flickering dash which I read was an indication of the faulty R/R. So I cursed a few times. Did all the checks, results below. And it appeared the Regulator was giving bad results (i think, please see my question below).

So I decided to start it up for no real reason, confident it wouldn't. And with the Regulator disconnected it started. So I reconnected it, and it still started up. WTF??

I don't understand, I don't know if maybe a faulty connection? And disconnecting and reconnecting smoothed it out? Maybe it was extra cold the few days I tried to start it a few weeks back when it didn't start and it was grumpy? Little baffled. Any thoughts?

Battery
Ignition off 13.08V
Iginition on, high beams on 12.37V
Running (very suprised it started, read on) 14.5V

Stator
All read 0.2 Ohms
Checked against the engine ground, all read ZERO

R/R
Results vary pending which way i run leads. I don't know what this means.

Using the RED on the 3 Pins, the 2 BLACK on the 4pin read ZERO
Using the BLACK on the 3 Pins, the 2 RED on the 4pin read ZERO

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post #836 of 958 Old 12-02-12, 17:51
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^^^^ You should read some sort of resistance when you run the test. Reading a short means the R/R is bad.

1997 YZF100R/Thunderace - She committed suicide 15Mar07!
2008 Daytona 675 - She was murdered 30Jan13
2013 Daytona 675R - Sexy reincarnation 15Mar13!
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post #837 of 958 Old 12-02-12, 18:33
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Is it normal to read the shorts on different wires pending which way I route them?
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post #838 of 958 Old 12-02-12, 23:57
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Why are you bothering to test it. You have the old unit which is recalled. Take it to a dealer and they'll replace it for free.
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post #839 of 958 Old 12-03-12, 12:15
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Dealer is 1.5 hours away, needs the bike in person, and before yesterday the bike didn't start. I did look into that. Must be dealer installed.

So if I can fix this myself in person, I'd rather not spend the money to tow it, or potentially risk having it not start for me 1.5 hours away, if there is another potential issue beyond the R/R...

Can it be confirmed my R/R is dead from the results I posted? The steps outlined confused me a little, all 4 wires should have some resistance?, in my case 2 did not, and even though the 2 that did not seemed to flip pending which way I ran the leads... this doesn't matter, the R/R is dead and needs replacing?
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post #840 of 958 Old 12-03-12, 12:46
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Let me clarify one point for you. The bike is not dependent on the charging system to start. As long as it has a good battery the bike will start and run with or without the charging system. So if it didn't start and then did start later without you charging the battery in between then the issue isn't the charging system.

As for getting it to a dealer a lot of insurance policies have road side assistance which would cover the cost of getting it to a dealer.
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