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General 675 discussion Anything related to the Triumph 675 model(s), and miscellaneous motorcycle talk.

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Old 11-27-12, 18:32   #21
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Originally Posted by Papachristou View Post
you didnt notice that the bike was lowered FOUR inches? i dont think my daytona could make it down the street if i lowered it four inches.
Unfortunately, at the time, I did not have the correct license so could not test ride. Got a mate to but he said it was all sweet. I was saving for a new one but this one was the kind of deal you cannot say no to... 1200km on the clock, TOR pipe, $12k (as opposed to $19k new (NZD)). Figured she was telling the truth when she said it just wasn't the right bike for her as she was tiny. If I cannot solve this I will sell it and buy another Daytona. And this one I'll definitely test ride!!! :)
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Old 11-27-12, 18:49   #22
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wow four inches will make a huge difference, but it shouldnt be that hard to raise it back to stock
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Old 11-27-12, 18:54   #23
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wow four inches will make a huge difference, but it shouldnt be that hard to raise it back to stock
I have raised it back to stock however it's still not handling like it should
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Old 11-27-12, 19:00   #24
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You can lower the bike just with the shock. After all, adjusting the preload will alter the ride height by a bit so essentially a shorter shock and shorter spring will mean that the back of the bike will just sit lower.
This seems to be a pretty common misconception and it's 100% wrong. The only way to adjust ride height with a shock is if it's a fancy one with a ride height screw at the bottom.

The spring is compressed or uncompressed by the collar on the threads at the top. Whether it's cranked all the way down or up, the overall lengths of the body & shaft are unaffected. See image below.


Your bike probably handles like shit because it's probably still lowered in the back by modified shock linkages. Replace them with linkages you're positive are stock and it should handle fine.
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Old 11-27-12, 19:05   #25
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This seems to be a pretty common misconception and it's 100% wrong. The only way to adjust ride height with a shock is if it's a fancy one with a ride height screw at the bottom.

The spring is compressed or uncompressed by the collar on the threads at the top. Whether it's cranked all the way down or up, the overall lengths of the body & shaft are unaffected. See image below.

image...

Your bike probably handles like shit because it's probably still lowered in the back by modified shock linkages. Replace them with linkages you're positive are stock and it should handle fine.
I get the above but if you shorten the actual shock itself by adding a spacer to it internally so that it cannot extend to full extension then this would result in a shorter shock and hence a lower height would it not?

You are correct about the preload however, my bad! :)

I've gone through and double checked the dog bone and the triangles and they are definitely stock. Are there other linkages that I'm missing??
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Old 11-27-12, 19:18   #26
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I get the above but if you shorten the actual shock itself by adding a spacer to it internally so that it cannot extend to full extension then this would result in a shorter shock and hence a lower height would it not?
Yeah that would affect the height, and as you found out, also makes it handle horribly.

Moving your rear axle forward 10mm will most likely put excess slack in your chain and won't make a noticeable difference in handling. I've been riding for 16 years and I don't notice a change of 10mm.

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I've gone through and double checked the dog bone and the triangles and they are definitely stock. Are there other linkages that I'm missing??
I think I have a good article on geometry set-up on my hard drive at home. I'll send it to you if I find it. It should allow you to get your bike the same as Karl's. BTW did he also have a stock shock? Because those also handle like shit.
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Old 11-27-12, 19:21   #27
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this is pretty far out there because im assuming if you know how to check oil level in your forks you know how to check your chain tension. Could it be your chain is so tight that your rear suspension is not compressing like it should causing poor traction?
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Old 11-27-12, 19:24   #28
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Yeah that would affect the height, and as you found out, also makes it handle horribly.

Moving your rear axle forward 10mm will most likely put excess slack in your chain and won't make a noticeable difference in handling. I've been riding for 16 years and I don't notice a change of 10mm.


I think I have a good article on geometry set-up on my hard drive at home. I'll send it to you if I find it. It should allow you to get your bike the same as Karl's. BTW did he also have a stock shock? Because those also handle like shit.
That would be awesome if you could! Thanks! I've spend days studying "Sportbike Suspension Tuning" by Andrew Tevitt and "Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible" and they're outstanding books!

Karls had a stock shock with a Race Tech spring. I have a stock shock and an Ohlins spring that is the same weight as the Race Tech one. On the Ohlins the closest I can come to the recommended 30-35mm sag is 55mm at full preload so I'm going to go back to stock shock stock spring. I know the OEM parts don't handle that great but I've test ridden a few new Daytona's and they're still 100x better than mine is. I'm not after anything race worthy, just something I feel comfortable on and can ride with a larger safety margin.
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Old 11-27-12, 19:25   #29
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Originally Posted by munch View Post
this is pretty far out there because im assuming if you know how to check oil level in your forks you know how to check your chain tension. Could it be your chain is so tight that your rear suspension is not compressing like it should causing poor traction?
Hahaha it's a good question but I'm afraid chain tension is good. This is actually a mistake I made with my first bike... Overly tight chain so I learnt my lesson very quickly :)
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Old 11-27-12, 19:34   #30
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Originally Posted by [Terry] View Post
Karls had a stock shock with a Race Tech spring. I have a stock shock and an Ohlins spring that is the same weight as the Race Tech one. On the Ohlins the closest I can come to the recommended 30-35mm sag is 55mm at full preload so I'm going to go back to stock shock stock spring. I know the OEM parts don't handle that great but I've test ridden a few new Daytona's and they're still 100x better than mine is. I'm not after anything race worthy, just something I feel comfortable on and can ride with a larger safety margin.
Do you know what your sag was on Karl's bike? I'm sure you're aware that the stock spring is meant for someone well over 100 kilos. I'm only 68 kg and it felt like barebacking a Golem. I'd say getting the right spring for yourself is the first step.
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