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| General 675 discussion Anything related to the Triumph 675 model(s), and miscellaneous motorcycle talk. |
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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 33
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Hello forum
I'm new to 675s although not new to bikes. I currently own a Yamaha r6(r), but I've always been fascinated with the 675 ever since I sat on one at the bike show some years back. I am considering picking a used one. I understand that a 675 Is more labor intensive, I typically do all the basics myself like oil change and chain clean/tightening. Are there any particular years to stay away from? Anyone go from a r6 to 675? Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 453
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I wouldnt really call them more labor intensive.
You dont have to worry about staying away from any model years they issued a recall on the rr issue so even if you have an old one you can bring it to the dealer for a new rr. |
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#3 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 33
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Ill be looking at a couple over the weekend. Both are stock, I think I'd prefer something w a few basics like a slip on, rear sets, etc.
Exhausts look pretty expensive. Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App |
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#4 | |
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BOTM Marshall
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: near Savannah, GA
Posts: 3,182
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The major differences you will notice are: less vibrations than your R6, slimmer body, more midrange torque than you R6.
Valve clearance checks come sooner than your Yamaha, but other than that it is no different. I used to own an '05 FZ6, and comparatively the 675 is far and away much easier to wrench on. Less fasteners and much more intuitive to take apart. If you get an 06-07, make sure it has the fuel pump relay recall performed 06-09, regulator/rectifier recall.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 4,255
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Wherever/whoever gave you that information is full of dung. OEM parts are more expensive than the Japanese bikes, (if you live in the USA) due to the currency exchange rate, but that's what you get for the exclusiveness of the brand.
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#6 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 33
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I saw that a recommend valve adjustment period is about 12,000 miles. So I'd be considering something under 7,000 miles.
Is that an expensive service? Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App |
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#7 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 33
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This is good info, thanks guys. I was hoping to see a little bit more low range as well. I have a 2007 r6, and there's plenty of top end, Low end not so much.
I've never done a valve adjustment, just always seemed like more than I can do myself but we'll see what happens if I get one Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App |
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#8 | |
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BOTM Marshall
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: near Savannah, GA
Posts: 3,182
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The valve adjustment isn't that difficult. I did one recently. Unlike a I4, you cannot install the cams 180 out.
just need the proper tools.
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#9 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 33
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Hm, I guess I'll just buy a repair manual if it comes down to it.
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#10 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 33
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I've also seen a common issue is an exup getting stuck, I assume that issue goes away once you replace the slip on? What type of fuel controllers are you guys running? Any slip on to stay away from?
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