Track guys running forks flush - Page 3 - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #21 of 45 Old 04-11-12, 03:50
Logans08Daytona675
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Im about 3mm below the top and really like the way it feels. I do find in slower turns though that I find myself having to pick the bike up slightly but at higher speeds around 70+ the bike just holds and goes around corners on rails

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post #22 of 45 Old 04-11-12, 14:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMAF View Post
I'm running bt-003's this year.
That's what I was planning on racing on this yr... older tire but they are cheap, available (with reasonably new mfg dates), and still a great tire. Question is which profile up front? I haven't tried the V yet, but the more rounded profile that should turn a little quicker I wouldn't think of running the forks flush with. I like a bike that turns really quick... as quick as I can get it without being unstable.

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post #23 of 45 Old 04-11-12, 14:47
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Tried flush and didn't like it. However when I was at OEM fork drop I do remember a good majority of my crashes were midcorner with the front tucking.

I settled with 2mm and so far happy with it. Its a good compromise between effort it takes to turn in and stability.

So really...the best way to know is to try it yourself. I may try it again with adjustment of my rear axle in the middle of the swingarm. My adjusters are further in. Who knows...I might have to remove a link or two off my chain to do that adjustment. If it will require that, I will just stick with my 2mm drop.

Ride and get shacked in the Tube....Kain the Throttle

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post #24 of 45 Old 04-11-12, 14:56
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Stock Height - 4mm Gold Tube Showing
*Fast/Easier Turn In
*Less Mid Corner Stability

Forks Flush to Triple
*Slower/Harder Turn In
*More Mid Corner Stability

It's my understanding (from chatting with others) that while our bikes are flickable, riders seasoned with jap bikes find the 675 a bit unnerving as it feels unstable mid-corner (race/track applications).

My suspension shop flushed my forks without telling me and even my noob-self noticed the difference in turn in even on street (compared to full stock 4mm).

I ran 1mm of gold tube showing last season and I felt fine with it. I was happy. But what do i know! I have had a few racers comment mid-season that my turn in was very slow and gradual , which can be regarded as many tiny adjustments towards apex. That is all from rider input, not cause of the bike. One main reason for this is that I had no turn-in markers - negatively, I ride very much out of 'what feels right'. I believe the idea (Keith Code Twist of the Wrist speaks to it) is that the faster you tip in, the faster you set the suspension to where it needs to be, the faster you can drive out of that turn. So, faster tip in is ideal. Towards the end of the season, I set turn in markers a bit better and in my gopro videos it's easy to notice a MUCH faster tip in which were coupled with faster lap times.

Play around with the heights and see which you prefer!

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post #25 of 45 Old 04-18-12, 17:50 Thread Starter
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I'm running -4 mm. I went to an Ohlin's seminar and was instructed by the tech to do that. I could safely run -5 but to try -4 and see if I like it.

MY MY what a world of difference.

I also pushed my clip-on's out. That helps with the steering input and less harsh on the throttle wrist at lean.
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post #26 of 45 Old 04-19-12, 12:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMAF View Post
I'm running -4 mm. I went to an Ohlin's seminar and was instructed by the tech to do that. I could safely run -5 but to try -4 and see if I like it.

MY MY what a world of difference.

I also pushed my clip-on's out. That helps with the steering input and less harsh on the throttle wrist at lean.
Am I interpreting correctly that your forks are sunk into the triple by 4mm?

2009 D675
- Racetech fork valves and springs - Competition Werkes integrated smoked taillight and FE - Zero Gravity Corsa windscreen - CRG RC2 levers - Sato frame sliders - GB Racing case covers - StompGrip tank grips - Proton flushmount signals -
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post #27 of 45 Old 04-19-12, 15:01
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What do you mean by push clip-on out?
You mean you adjust them out more?

-4mm = 4mm gold folk showing?



Quote:
Originally Posted by BMAF View Post
I'm running -4 mm. I went to an Ohlin's seminar and was instructed by the tech to do that. I could safely run -5 but to try -4 and see if I like it.

MY MY what a world of difference.

I also pushed my clip-on's out. That helps with the steering input and less harsh on the throttle wrist at lean.
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post #28 of 45 Old 04-19-12, 17:16 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Matt View Post
Am I interpreting correctly that your forks are sunk into the triple by 4mm?
You are correct, Good sir!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wei View Post
What do you mean by push clip-on out?
You mean you adjust them out more?

-4mm = 4mm gold folk showing?
Yes, Pushed the clip-ons out.

-4mm = Sunk in the triples
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post #29 of 45 Old 04-19-12, 17:17
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interesting. Could you explain 'what a world of difference'? How did it change, overall? Also, are you on "R" Ohlins forks, or just taking the Ohlin's techs advice for your Kayaba forks?

2009 D675
- Racetech fork valves and springs - Competition Werkes integrated smoked taillight and FE - Zero Gravity Corsa windscreen - CRG RC2 levers - Sato frame sliders - GB Racing case covers - StompGrip tank grips - Proton flushmount signals -
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post #30 of 45 Old 04-19-12, 17:24
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My Bitubo documents recommend to start at 8mm above the triple clamp with ECH cartriges with +12mm travel. We'll see how that goes next month.

Nuno!

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