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HOW TO: Dual HIDs (Sting)

26K views 184 replies 36 participants last post by  rsparky 
#1 · (Edited)
This "HOW TO" solves the problem that most of us D675'rs face when it comes to headlights and lighting. Problem being that we want even lighting/symmetrical brightness and color, within both side of our headlights while using HID style lighting.
Some things to know first...
1.)DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT IS CAUSED TO YOUR HEADLIGHT, YOUR BIKE, YOURSELF, YOUR FRIENDS, YOUR FRIEND'S HEADLIGHT, YOUR FRIEND'S BIKE, YOUR FAMILY MEMBER, YOUR FAMILY MEMBER'S...WELL YOU GET THE PICTURE!

2.) This write up is long with lots of reading/pictures, so PLEASE read carefully as this will answer most questions that people have, before you post a question and look stupid :stupid:.

3.) I will be showing/explaining how to wire up the HIDs to your HIGH BEAM switch so that you can turn them off/on when ever you want. (at least that's what I want, you may do otherwise or wire them to whatever you want). So through inductive and deductive reasoning, you by now should realize that you WILL NOT HAVE A HIGH BEAM IF YOU FOLLOW MY GUIDE. The reason being that if you order two 55w 6000k HIDS like I did, do you really think your going to need a high beam? Didn't think so...:curtsey: If anything you will have to adjust your headlights down towards the road so you are not blinding people. If you want to do this and have a low and high beam for both sides you will have to buy Bi-Xenon projectors and have them custom fit which will cost you around $500+.

4.) You can go with what ever setup you want as far as bulb size (H7 or H9), ballast kelvin or color (aka "k": 5,000 6,000 10,000 or whatever), and wattage (35w or 55w). Just remember that you should get two of the SAME BULB SIZES if you want exactly the same color and brightness.
FOR EXAMPLE: if you get one H7 bulb and one H9 bulb, then get matching ballasts and wattage there is a chance that they could be a little off in color and/or brightness. The reason is because the bulbs are made in pairs from the factory and depending on how they are made together...if you separate them, they could possibly be different. This information came directly from a DDM Tuning technician today December 22, 2011 over the phone...they are VERY informative I might add :nod:

Now, I understand that if you could just use H7 and H9 bulbs (one for each side) that would save a lot of time and hassle, but it will also cost you more money and could potentially not be the same.

5.) If you have any ambition to do Halos, Audi style lighting, housing/shroud painting, etc ...after you do my mod, while your headlight is still apart, it would be a good time to install what you need before re-sealing.

Tools you'll need:
-Grinder (see picture)
-Philips Screwdriver
-Vice Grip (or a super jacked friend :flex:)
-Wire Stripper/Cutter
-

Other things you'll need:
-Dual HID kit with the SAME size bulbs (H7 or H9)
-Dual Hid Harness the same as this one:
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/HID-Kit-Wiring-Harness
-Shrink Wrap or Black Electrical Tape
-Cardboard (I used Bud Light box... yum yum :flipoff:)
-Masking/Painters Tape
-H7 plug from Auto Zone or an auto parts store
-Some sort of metal clip to hold the HID into place. The ideal clip would be to get one from another daytona. You will need the clip and the screw with the bracket just the same as the Low beam (H7) side of your headlight
Here is what I am talking about:
Left side

Right side

You need to have the SAME SETUP on both side in order for it to work!

-How to take Headlight apart (and put back together) Thread (Give some credit to 675>FZ6R for doing some serious bitch work...:notworthy:)
Found here: How to: Disassemble Headlight Assembly & Paint Interior

THE STEPS ON HOW TO STING YOUR HEADLIGHTS:
(okay i might be trying to create a name for myself...and the mod) :wannafight:

1: (THE HARD PART) Take apart your headlight COMPLETELY following 675>FZ6R's thread (found above). Some things to know:
-You will need the tools describes in his How To thread (i was not about to put there here because that would be a waste of time and space)
-you will mar up the outside of your headlight housing and feel like you are ruining everything, but your not. In the end you'll be heating it back up to mold it back into place.
-TAKE YOUR F'ING TIME AND PE PATIENT!!!! if you have to put the headlight in the over 10 times, then do it!!! If you break your headlight lens... well im sure you can figure that one out...:whistle:
-**When you take your projectors out, do not take them apart yet, set them aside so we can work on them and keep track of LEFT versus RIGHT pieces

2: After the headlight is apart, you want to ONLY be working with the LEFT projector or the LOW BEAM projector. (so put everything else aside so you don' mix up parts :thumbup:) > If you are having a hard time figuring out which projector is high and low, the HIGH BREAM projector has a black plastic twist base plate for the H9 bulb and does not have the block off plate in the middle of the projector (can be seen after taking off the black plastic twist base plate and looking into the projector).

3. Take the projector apart piece by piece all the way down until you just have the metal projector bracket attached to the glass lens, and the block off plate held on by a screw When you are working with the projector BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE LENS ON S*** OR YOU WILL BREAK/SCRATCH/DAMAGE IT AND BE VERY :cursin:
You should have something like this:


To prevent from scratching the lens while you are working on it, put some masking tape on it to cover it, and a piece of cardboard or more tape in the inside to cover it completely. Should look like this:



4. Now this next step can be skipped you if you can un-screw that stupid screw from the back off plate. I could not get mine off to save my life so I opted out to an easier way... hehe :wink2: Put the projector in a vice grip and grind off the screw head.
Looks like this:


5. Then remove the block off plate and you will see the metal arm that the block off plate screws to, your going to grind that off now...once again BE CAREFUL no to grind up your projector too bad.
Should look something like this:





6. Now you have the projector symmetrical to the LOW BEAM projector (which has no block off plate inside)



7. Okay now simply just reverse the "taking it apart" process. Pretty much common sense.
What it looked like before I started to silicon it. BTW I used this stuff called LEXEL and I'll let you guys know how it holds up.

The Lexel takes a day or two to dry but I really like it. It is very flexible and still somewhat tacky. Have not tried to re-heat it and pull it apart tho. If I ever do I will make sure to update!

NOW, we will be converting the headlight to the "Dual" setup we desire. By doing this, when the bike is tuned and the headlight high beam switch is flipped on, both sides of the headlight will light up. When the switch is off, there will be no light coming from the headlight. (except you DRL's)

8. First you will need to cut two wires approximately about 12" long so you can bridge both sides of the headlight. You will need to run the wires through the back of the headlight, after it is ran through you are going to connect the H7 plug to the wires you just ran, keeping track of the positive and negative wires.


9. Next you will need to simply cut off the LEFT SIDE PLUG! You might need to use a razor blade to cut back the shroud. Try to leave as much of the wire as you can so you have something to play with, but also leave some on the plug so it can be used again, because it will.


10. Now, hook up the positive and negative ends from the HID into the plug shown below...


11. Next, you will need to cut off the H9 plug on the right side of the headlight and extend the stock wiring a bit. NOTE: I only had black wiring so I wrapped a white twistie tie around it to show that it is the positive wire.


12. NOW PAY ATTENTION HERE BECAUSE THIS MIGHT GET CONFUSING!
You will be connecting the wires you ran through the back of the headlight to another H7 plug. You need to connect the two negatives (one from the wiring you ran through the headlight, and one from stock wiring you extended) into the negative side of the plug. Then you will be doing the same for the positive side.
NOTE: I messed up and ran my positives to the negative side of the plug and did not notice it until the very end, but all I had to do was just switch the positive and negative connections coming from the HID. Pretty easy fix. So if you are looking at the picture I took, try not to get confused. Please refer to the one I created if you start to get confused.





13. Finally, hook up the positive and negative ends from the HIDs to the H7 plug on the RIGHT side and tuck everything into the headlight housing shown below.



14. You will want to go back and block off the live wires from the H7 plug you cut off earlier, just in case they would touch and cause a short...so do that like this:



There, everything is now converted!


NOW, we will be moving to the bike and setting up the harness that you bought. You cannot run everything off the bike's stock harness as it will not be enough to power BOTH of the HIDs at the same time. (and yes I did test this) :curtsey:

15. Lay the harness over the bike so you can see what you are working with.


16. You will want to run the positive and negative connectors of the harness backwards through the main frame first as it is a LOT easier than trying to run all that wiring one way. Now, connect the negative and positive ends to the battery. You will see what I am talking about in the pictures.




17. Set your headlight up on something that is about waist high so it is easy to work with. Hook everything up to the harness as you are getting ready to test everything. Double check all your connections!!!



WITH OUT FURTHER A-DO... I GIVE TO YOU "DUAL HID's" (PLEASE GOD WATCH)


A Side Note:
The Halos I used are size 80MM T-10's and the color is cool white, from here:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...tegory=ACCENTS&Page2Disp=/specs/aepc80x54.htm
The pic is a little bright, but you get the idea.


Lastly...Some Extra Pictures:








Special thanks to:
wfire19, 675>FZ6R, faheygf87, Nemain675, and homer
 
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#91 ·
#93 ·
yea....just put these in mine...turned out pretty darn good...decided to black it all out and go with the individual LED look. PS if you need any OEM projectors to work on i believe I have 3 spare sets now haha ...
 
#96 ·
Noch- i dont suppose you have a spare H7 clip etc you would like to part with. I will be doing the Dual HID conversion soon.


Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
 
#97 ·
Your h9 has a clip on the back that will work. I used that and it fit snug. Open it up and you will know what I am talking about.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#99 ·
thanks Aussie ill check that out, i didnt think it did , but hey its been a while since i looked.
Ill keep you in mind and let you know Noch
 
#100 ·
Have any of you followed my thread and completed this exact mod? I ask because I am having an issue with my Hids lighting up. Sometimes when I am riding they will flicker and go out, and come back on again. And sometimes they won't even turn on. I am using the harness so it leads me to believe it's the battery... Hmm any input.. I dont have a long term experience with hids (only about 3 years) and could use some insight...

Sent from my PC36100 using Motorcycle.com App
 
#101 ·
Have any of you followed my thread and completed this exact mod? I ask because I am having an issue with my Hids lighting up. Sometimes when I am riding they will flicker and go out, and come back on again. And sometimes they won't even turn on. I am using the harness so it leads me to believe it's the battery... Hmm any input.. I dont have a long term experience with hids (only about 3 years) and could use some insight...

Sent from my PC36100 using Motorcycle.com App
Is it just one gong out at a time or both? If one it could be a single wire fault or the ballast.

If it was your battery wouldn't you lose your tach cluster as well?

DDM isn't the best band on the market either.

I have a misfire on a lamp every now and then, I just flick the switch again.

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#103 ·
Put the lights on. Wiggle and pull on all the connections and see which one cuts out, all the way from wiring harness to the lights.

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#105 ·
Put the lights on. Wiggle and pull on all the connections and see which one cuts out, all the way from wiring harness to the lights.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Motorcycle.com Free App
Okay I figured it out, its the fuse holder/fuse. There was a weak connection there, currently heading to the store to pick up another and rewire it up!
 
#107 ·
Best way to tell is go into the store and check. They usually have a color board. If not... Do the shake n spray...

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#109 ·
You know it ;)

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#111 ·
You can write it to the low beam light but I would recommend that if you are getting rid of your running lights on the side. It is best to wire then to that so if you blow your main light fuse you will still have your signals.

this is what I did with the side lights.
 

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#113 ·
The side lights. Bit of security so if you lose your main lights you don't totally black out on the road. You don't want that.......

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#118 ·
what affect are you after?

Are you wanting your hids on hi beam and the angel eyes to run on low?

if you want that you will need wire the led rings both to the low beam. H7 plug

And the wire both hid lights to the h9.

I don't know what ground wire you are referring to. But as long as the lights are reconnected to negative terminal it should work.

More info would help for a better explanation.

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#119 ·
what affect are you after?

Are you wanting your hids on hi beam and the angel eyes to run on low?

if you want that you will need wire the led rings both to the low beam. H7 plug

And the wire both hid lights to the h9.

I don't know what ground wire you are referring to. But as long as the lights are reconnected to negative terminal it should work.

More info would help for a better explanation.]

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Motorcycle.com App
yea im trying to run the angel eyes on the low an the an the hid on the high. the ground im talking for is coming from both my blast. the two black wires that are in the middle im suppose to ground or can i just cut them off?

Circuit component Gadget Ac adapter Electronic engineering Electrical wiring
 
#120 ·
ok so when i hook up everything on my bike to check them the angel eyes come on an when i switch the hi beam on expecting my lights to come on they dont so i was wonder is it cause im not using the ground while testing it? i really would like help from anyone it becoming real frustrated
 
#121 ·
Alright, so I'm in the beginning stages of doing a headlight mod myself and recently put a little twist on this mod. I know Sting went in a ground off the half block off plate in the low beam projector. I was ready to do the same but wanted to go to the 09 upper fairing lead me to ending up with 2 sets of headlights. My first order of business was comparing the stock beam patterns out of each head light:

Low beam looks like this


High beam like this


Seeing as the low beam has a wider pattern I didnt wanna losethe ability to see to the sides by going to a 2 high beam set up, but I didnt wanna lose the distance of the high beam by using 2 low beams.

So i came out with the idea to use the 2 wider focused low beam reflector housings


with the 2 lens from the high beam side


This allowed me to keep a wide beam plus a focused center for added distance


This is how the other 2 look with the high beam reflector housing and the low beam lens


will eventually be putting a dual H9 HID kit into the first set of new housings so they should be plently bright enough to light up the road at night to see and for people to see me :nod:
 
#123 ·
sense this is about HID's i figured ill ask my question here instead of making a new thread... so i was looking to get 2 55w HID's and i like the color the 10000k makes which is sky blue (@ list i think... from what i see online) but i was reading and it said that the brightest light is the 4300k which is crystal white color. does any1 know if the 10000k is bright enough? because i will be canceling my highbeams. Im planing on buying my lights from here http://www.360biker.com/hid-projector/triumph-hid-projectors/triumph-daytona-675/mt6d.html do you think this site looks like they sell good quality lights?
 
#124 ·
Hey man, I have the 55w 10000K HIDs in my car in the headlights and fog lights. being that they are 55w they actually wash out to the 8000K color of the 35w ishh... it makes them a little more white then they would be. to me they are plenty bright, they over power most other cars headlights on the road and highway. they are a shit ton brighter than my halogen high beams so i dont even drive with those anymore...
 
#128 ·
With the site you sent that is for the entire projector kit...you would have to take your headlights apart and install those ones (not sure if thats what your looking for...) If you want just the bulbs I would suggest going with DDM Tuning for just the bulbs. I would say most people here would go with that, at least it seems.

Edit: those ones on that site do have a high/low function so you wouldn't have to give up your high beam if you didnt want

Another Edit: I find it stupid that they charge you an extra $10 for the 10K bulbs, which are the ones you want
 
#129 ·
yea i want to do the whole headlight thing... i was looking at this http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=58424
i want to put hids with the halos with the demon eye and the led strip and i know its stupid that they charge and extra $10 for the bulbs i want but the whole kit comes out pretty cheap overall with the $10 extra so i dont really mind...
p.s. do u know where i can find the little lights on the sides? i want to change the color of those lights as well.
 
#130 ·
Ok, yeah im in the middle of doing this, i went with the stock projectors. I just bought halos from superbrightleds.com same with the side mount led strips. Ik superbright also has the side bulbs, your looking for the 194 bulbs...

but that site your looking at is 10$ for the bulbs $25 for the halos and $25 for the led strips. I think i picked up all my leds for halos headlights and tail lights for just over 100$
 
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