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setup Striple R suspension, any good ??

11K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  Jedclampet1 
#1 ·
i have been setting up the suspension on my 2010 Street Triple R & i have searched this forum looking for setup ideas but only found one Streety setup that is quite different to what i have, i'll list what i have setup so far below & if anyone has any ideas / suggestions / thoughts on how it is or where to go from here ti improve it more i'd love to hear them. also has anyone dropped the triples down the fork legs at all ? the bike has Rosso II's on it now but will be fitting Corsas next & doing afew trackdays, the road riding i do is all out in the smooth corners in the hills riding hard (knee down on road), occasional bumpy roads which i found taking out 2 clicks of ALL dampers makes it hold a line much better, anyway heres what i have so far :

weight + gear = 90kg / 198 pounds

front rider sag = 36 mm -- 1 turn out from full in preload
front rebound = 4 clicks out
front comp = 4 clicks out

rear rider sag = 32mm --16mm / 0.65 inch thread showing above collars
rear rebond = 8 clicks out
rear comp = 8 clicks out

cheers
chinski
 
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#2 ·
i have been setting up the suspension on my 2010 Street Triple R & i have searched this forum looking for setup ideas but only found one Streety setup that is quite different to what i have, i'll list what i have setup so far below & if anyone has any ideas / suggestions / thoughts on how it is or where to go from here ti improve it more i'd love to hear them. also has anyone dropped the triples down the fork legs at all ? the bike has Rosso II's on it now but will be fitting Corsas next & doing afew trackdays, the road riding i do is all out in the smooth corners in the hills riding hard (knee down on road), occasional bumpy roads which i found taking out 2 clicks of ALL dampers makes it hold a line much better, anyway heres what i have so far :

weight + gear = 90kg / 198 pounds

front rider sag = 36 mm -- 1 turn out from full in preload
front rebound = 4 clicks out
front comp = 4 clicks out

rear rider sag = 32mm --16mm / 0.65 inch thread showing above collars
rear rebond = 8 clicks out
rear comp = 8 clicks out

cheers
chinski
I would think the Sport settings would work well for your riding conditions:

Frt preload = 7 turns out from fully screwed in
Frt rebound = 2 clicks out
Frt comp = 2 clicks out
Rear rebound = 6 clicks out
Rear comp = 6 clicks out
 
#3 ·
Honestly I think you'll find the damping screws make much less difference then you think. You can put a lot of turns on them with very little change in feell When I set mine up for track/street I was around 180lbs. My preload is 3 lines and all the damping settings are actually a couple turns out (softer) then Triumphs soft setting in the manual. Last time I was at the track it felt as if the front preload might have been a little soft but every other adjustment (front and rear) was slightly stiff. I'm now closer to 160lbs and I'll be fitting a Penske shock before next summer so none of my setting are correct for me anymore. If I can get the money I'll upgrade the forks too since they really aren't very good.
 
#4 ·
i have been setting up the suspension on my 2010 Street Triple R & i have searched this forum looking for setup ideas but only found one Streety setup that is quite different to what i have, i'll list what i have setup so far below & if anyone has any ideas / suggestions / thoughts on how it is or where to go from here ti improve it more i'd love to hear them. also has anyone dropped the triples down the fork legs at all ? the bike has Rosso II's on it now but will be fitting Corsas next & doing afew trackdays, the road riding i do is all out in the smooth corners in the hills riding hard (knee down on road), occasional bumpy roads which i found taking out 2 clicks of ALL dampers makes it hold a line much better, anyway heres what i have so far :

weight + gear = 90kg / 198 pounds

front rider sag = 36 mm -- 1 turn out from full in preload
front rebound = 4 clicks out
front comp = 4 clicks out

rear rider sag = 32mm --16mm / 0.65 inch thread showing above collars
rear rebond = 8 clicks out
rear comp = 8 clicks out

cheers
chinski
2012 R - I'm often fiddling w/my set-up but here's what I've currently got -
weight in gear = 175 lbs

front
sag = 35mm - preload screwed all the way in
rebound = 2 clicks out
comp = 2 clicks out
4mm of fork tube showing above top triple clamp

rear
sag = 35mm - about 17mm tread above lock ring collar
rebound = 6 clicks out
comp = 6 clicks out

I feel the front damping settings are a smidge stiff over the rougher pavement but overall, this set-up seems to be stable and fairly well planted.

BTW, currently running Dunlop Q2s.
 
#5 ·
Keeping in mind that our stock forks have long, soft, top out springs the traditional 30 front and back pre-load doesn't apply and your front sag can be much more to be correct. Best to clock the forks action rather than go by static numbers on our, as well as many other late model bikes forks. Could be as much as 40/45.

A good article that explains it better : http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_1010_fork_top_out_springs/viewall.html

And the setting procedure: http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/Guides/motorcycleSuspensionSetup.htm#Counting

.
 
#7 ·
great stuff there guys thanks for the replies & links, it looks like i can go a bit softer on front preload, & probably add some compression + rebound to the front & rear

i will keep on adjusting as i ride & just doing a little at a time to see what works for me & what doesn't
 
#8 ·
one4ale

I wonder if they changed the fork spring over the years. When I set my sag I weighed 180lbs and I got 30mm with 3 lines showing. You're getting 36mm with the same weight with only 1 line?

As for soft top out that may be the case but I'm still within a quarter inch of bottoming at the track with only 30mm of sag. With the stock springs 180lbs really is near the upper weight limit for aggressive track riding.
 
#13 ·
MacBandit

I'm getting 35mm fork sag with no lines showing, preload is fully screwed in.
Previously with my Daytona, I had about 4 lines showing with 35mm sag.

I forget the source but I recall reading that the spring rates on the Daytonas were stiffer compared to the StR and my feeling is the springs are softer and more suited to my weight.
Does that sound right?
 
#9 ·
I think fork springs changed over the builds of the bikes. My suspension guy ran into an issued when he took my forks appart last year in that the spring rate is correct for my weight 195-200 with gear but we could not get a change in the preload more than 4mm from full in to full out (42mm-46mm). He machined a 7mm spacer and added that to the spring stackup and everything checks out now. Also threw in some gold valves when it was rebuilt.

The rear we had to respring to a 9.8N (i believe) and the bike feels A LOT better.
 
#11 ·
MacB, you know I love you man but lack of usable adjustment is a symptom of a long soft top out spring because you use up most of your pre-load adjustment range just compressing the top out spring and very little of it's range actually adding pre-load to the main spring.

Dave Moss explaines it better, long, but better...

http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/6349484

.
 
#12 ·
Sorry I didn't mean to say it was one way or another. I was really trying to make it clear that the answer is not to add more preload to set your sag. Also I can assure you my 09 does not have a long top out spring as my preload adjustment responds almost directly to my sag numbers. So I'm betting there is either a lot of changes over time or that the spring rates they use for top out and main spring aren't very good and aren't always to the rated spec. I actually predict the latter is the most likely since this occurs on most brands.
 
#18 ·
Suspension setup is all dependant to the rider. Its not a universal thing. As you get faster your suspension setting will change as well. What you have one weekend may feel way different the next weekend. I know when i started riding on the track after about my third track day i was changing settings on my street bike. It is also dependant upon weather. As it gets colder or warmer your suspension will soften or stiffen because of the change of density of the oil. (Becomes more fluid when warm) i am personally running a set of gold valves in my front forks with olhins oil and springs for my weight and a 602 olhins rear shock. Works pretty well.
 
#19 ·
Valid point, so true. Rider skill, weight, road/track conditions, etc, etc, all these variables affect handling for sure.
What works for one rider may not work for another. There's no single, magic set-up.

However, the common element of control would be a bike with stock suspension which probably describes a fair number of bikes on this forum.
The point of sharing info here allows us to establish a baseline set-up from which to start. From there, we can fine tune our set-up and/or modify our suspension to best suit us individually.

It's safe to say, we're able to benefit from each others knowledge, trials and errors.
 
#22 ·
Susp

I have a 2018 RS so my clicker settings will not help you however maybe these guide lines can. 40mm front and 30mm rider sag generally are good starting points and play a role in the bike ride height. from there lowering the front may make it turn in quicker and at some point less stable or nervous at speed or when braking like if you were to try 45mm or 50mm of front sag. The opposite direction a higher front using 35mm or less sag will make it feel more stable and say a little more effort to turn in. With that said its very personal as to which you prefer. Find a quite empty road or track you know well and hit a few times with the bike in its current state to feel your baseline and try a little more or less ride height and take notes of what your feeling, As for clickers the concept is to be balanced so as you push doen on the bike try it from pushing on the footpeg or front of seat or rear of tank the mid section is what your after and watch/feel for the front and rear suspension to move evenly if not make them even. Just my two cents.
 
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