Has anyone ever put in a switch to cut off their low beam?? I am also wondering if I could wire the low beam to the high beam switch and have them both come on at the same time?
I want to be able to turn the light off (and No, not while I'm driving on the street, for all the goody goodies).
I heard I could install a switch to the ground of the low beam and be able to accomplish this.
Yea I think the cleanest solution would be to buy a replacement handlebar switch that has the capability to turn off the low beam, like a high-low-off rocker switch.
I don't even know where to begin to find a switch assembly like that. If you want to sell that one I would buy it.
As for space in the switch housing. It's a lot lot tighter then it looks. When I first looked at it I too thought there was a ton of space. Boy was I wrong. When that thing is closed up there is nearly no space left insides around the bar. I did install a small micro-toggle switch in there for my heated grips but if I were to do it again I don't think I'd bother as it was a huge pain in the ass.
Here are some photos of what I did.
The one photo with the two switches is just a size comparison with the standard toggle switch you get with a do it yourself heated grip kit.
Yeah I want a black cap for the switch but haven't found one. I might use tool dip. In any case it's so small and out of the way that most don't notice it and I can switch it with my thumb without moving my hand. I really really want the factory switch assembly with the headlight switch so that I can turn that switch into my heated grip switch.
Have you ever thought about using an auto-switch? I have one on my truck that I can flash hold and release my high beams to turn on my backup lights and I have one on the high beam of my bike that I can flash the high beam twice quick to open my garage door.
Triumph do sell a switch for the Daytona 955i that has the switch for the headlights.
Off, park and low beam.
For a mere $400NZ… Yea, might just keep looking on EBay or maybe Riders Discount would like to do a bulk deal with K&S?
Triumph do sell a switch for the Daytona 955i that has the switch for the headlights.
Off, park and low beam.
For a mere $400NZ… Yea, might just keep looking on EBay or maybe Riders Discount would like to do a bulk deal with K&S?
Hmmm… I know some people…
I’ll see what I can do for a part number but I have my doubts that I’ll get very far.
Might be cheaper through the US dealers as you don’t have Triumph NZ gouging the eyes out of everything that comes across the counter.
Hmmm… I know some people…
I'll see what I can do for a part number but I have my doubts that I'll get very far.
Might be cheaper through the US dealers as you don't have Triumph NZ gouging the eyes out of everything that comes across the counter.
It appears that the switch for the 955i with the healight on/off is available in the USA as well. It's even in stock. The part number is T2040094. It's $170.82
I have already searched for one. Not an easy find. I will have to keep at it until someone gives us a good place to buy one from or one pops up on ebay.
We have the switch you're interested in at the link below. Please be sure to click on the SHIPPING AND PAYMENT tab to see the different shipping options we offer to your country
bumping this. finally got the K&S switch, and just got the OEM assembly off last night. hope to have this project finished up this week, but just from quick inspection I know I will have to do a little rewiring to make it work properly. I have since retrofitted bi-xenon projectors into the headlights, so my high beam wire will have to go directly to the cut-off shield on the projectors, and the headlight ON wire will go to the relay that turns on the HIDs.
Noch bought that K&S switch. I don't know if he ever got the thing installed, but I know when he was testing it he had problems. He said when he turned the high beam on it would shut the low beam off. He did a full bi-xenon retrofit so killing the low killed everything. Don't know if that's the way the switch works or if he just had it wired wrong.
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thanks. I just spent a little over an hour tracing all the wires and writing down my wiring schematic. I'll hook it up tomorrow or Friday and report back. If all works as it's supposed to, I'll start a thread with a how-to.
I am wiring it up as if I had the stock headlight setup, but I will use vampire clips to run wires to my projectors and HID relay as necessary. This way, I will still retain the proper indicators, like the High Beam light on the gauge.
That looks clean! I have no interest in this myself since it's law here that your headlights have to be on at all times but i'm glad you all found a way to do it and keep it looking OEM! :thumbup:
Got mine figured out as well! Only hiccup was that I had to use the blue wire (parking lights), which they label as "blank", to turn on the HIDs. For some reason, turning on the high beams was turning off the low beams (i.e. turning off the HIDs).
I will eventually put up the full wiring schematic with color codes, and pictures of my light output from the dual bi-xenon projectors with 55w HID kit. Even took some comparison pictures of 55w vs. 35w.
Got mine figured out as well! Only hiccup was that I had to use the blue wire (parking lights), which they label as "blank", to turn on the HIDs. For some reason, turning on the high beams was turning off the low beams (i.e. turning off the HIDs.
Did you wire the running lights into the switch? I still have to do that but I want to get the proper pins/sockets for the standard connectors first, but I can only find them in packs of 100 for about $10 each pack.
I don't use parking lights in the front. I pulled the bulbs out shortly after I got the bike.
The tail and license plate lights still turn on with the ignition. Thought about at least tying the license plate light into the switch, but that's a project for next year.
Your controls+plugs look the same as the ones I bought, You have to move the clutch switch over to the new controls, and ditch the piggy back. I posted the original wiring schematic here http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=63957, my memory is fuzzy on the new wiring to accommodate turning off the lights and Im away from my bike atm...
Update: By default the lights would be on even with the controls not plugged in because the headlight wiring bypasses the switch, I had to cut one of the wires going to the headlights and wire it through the controls. Have a look at the haynes manual for a full schematic.
It'll probably too late for you since you're starting this now. But after I get back from vacation on the 6th, I will try to finally get that up. Will certainly be great for anyone looking to install that switch, especially if retrofitting bi-xenon projectors.
It's never too late. But in any case I got a proper response from the Great DEcosse! Got the switch working, not exactly as intended as per switch design, but still working and now have a stock L. hand switch with headlight on/off capability. If anybody wants to try this mod you can find the write up here http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona67...older-model-left-light-swith.html#post2456061 and you can thank DEcosse for it.
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