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Clutch switch AND ISM question

1K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  spazio10 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi Guys!

So I have recently bought a 07 Daytona 675 for racing and I have have noticed the clutch switch is removed. I have heard this can be an issue with mapping and create a power loss. I have also done a search and found one thread here that states the clutch switch is not required on 06-08. can anyone confirm this or point me in the right direction as to why it is an issue on newer bikes and not older ones.

I have also noticed the bike has a manual idle adjuster as well as the stock idle stepper motor. Will these two units not be fighting eachother for idle adjustment? can they be used together?

the bike has a stock ecu and stock wire harness as well

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
There have been a few threads about this on this forum. From what I have gathered from those threads, unless you have a race harness and ECU (which don't have a clutch switch to my knowledge), you need the clutch switch. Your bike will run a different map if the clutch switch is not engaged. Your bike will run as if you are pulling in the clutch the whole time and be down on power.

A lot of people want to remove it so that they don't need to pull in the clutch to start their bike, but that is what I have gathered from those threads. The best think to do if you want to remove the switch is to add a external switch somewhere else so you can turn it on and off at will, that way the bike can still run the correct MAP when you are out on the track. As far as a manual idle adjuster, I have no idea how this would be a problem as I'm not as educated on those pieces.
 
#4 ·
The PO may have left the ISM in place but unattached to the butterflies when adding the manual idle. Its kind if a pain to remove.
As llenta said, a simple on/off toggle switch will work.
I did something similar, taking the starter and clutch switch and hooking them to a DPST momentary on switch so I could start the bike with one switch.

 
#5 ·
The butterflies are still factory attached and the manual adjuster is most certainly working against the ISM. Should I just remove the manual adjuster all together and stick with the factory set up or can I remove ISM while using the stock harness and stock ECU? Im just worried about the confusion the ECU will have with the conflicting systems.

I like your idea with the starter switch, very clever! If I would like to continue to use the on board lap timer and map switch feature through tune boy, I think I will just need to reinstall the clutch switch regardless of any other potential power or performance losses/issues.
 
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