I'm new to 675s although not new to bikes. I currently own a Yamaha r6(r), but I've always been fascinated with the 675 ever since I sat on one at the bike show some years back. I am considering picking a used one.
I understand that a 675 Is more labor intensive, I typically do all the basics myself like oil change and chain clean/tightening.
Are there any particular years to stay away from? Anyone go from a r6 to 675?
You dont have to worry about staying away from any model years they issued a recall on the rr issue so even if you have an old one you can bring it to the dealer for a new rr.
The major differences you will notice are: less vibrations than your R6, slimmer body, more midrange torque than you R6.
Valve clearance checks come sooner than your Yamaha, but other than that it is no different.
I used to own an '05 FZ6, and comparatively the 675 is far and away much easier to wrench on. Less fasteners and much more intuitive to take apart.
If you get an 06-07, make sure it has the fuel pump relay recall performed
06-09, regulator/rectifier recall.
Wherever/whoever gave you that information is full of dung. OEM parts are more expensive than the Japanese bikes, (if you live in the USA) due to the currency exchange rate, but that's what you get for the exclusiveness of the brand.
This is good info, thanks guys. I was hoping to see a little bit more low range as well. I have a 2007 r6, and there's plenty of top end, Low end not so much.
I've never done a valve adjustment, just always seemed like more than I can do myself but we'll see what happens if I get one
Question for you. On your R6, how difficult is it to roll on the throttle smoothly? Daytona riders, I'm curious how your bikes are also. In the turns when I'm leaning pretty good I extend considerable effort into trying to be smooth (which slows me down by being distracting) with the throttle. Strangely enough, even though the R6 is so weak down low, you still get that little tiny burst of power on the initial pull. Now it's not scary or anything but:
1) I don't appreciate the bike not following my commands. I'm smooth, so should it.
2) When leaned over I'm subject to potential traction issues. I don't want anything taking traction away.
NOTES:
This problem seems to reside at lower RPMs, so a faster rider would not have them I think.
Perhaps if I set my corner speed better, I would not be starting to roll on while I'm leaned over. I would roll on straight up(then who cares about a little jerk in the throttle?), then when I'm leaned over I've already passed that initial rough response and should be smooth sailing.
On another note about the R6 versus the Daytona, you are perhaps better suited for a Daytona than most. The ergonomics of your R6 are quit aggressive on the wrists. The Daytona has kind of a high seat low bars kinda feel, so depending on how you sit, you could be leaning into your wrists. On the R6, I find myself spending a lot of time trying keep weight off my wrists(should be doing that anyway) and I've had some uncomfortable rides. I expect any comfort issues on the Daytona would be something that would not sending you running because:
A) You are used to it
B) You have already adopted a technique that saves your wrists
Please note that most of these riders on here will probably say they have little to no issues with D675 long rides, so somehow they have worked it out or are OK making the sacrifices.
I've also seen a common issue is an exup getting stuck, I assume that issue goes away once you replace the slip on? What type of fuel controllers are you guys running? Any slip on to stay away from?
I've also seen a common issue is an exup getting stuck, I assume that issue goes away once you replace the slip on? What type of fuel controllers are you guys running? Any slip on to stay away from?
Adding a slip on does nothing to sort out the EXUP valve. A full system solves the problem, or you can just remove the EXUP altogether. It serves no useful purpose.
Most people here use TuneECU with an OBD2 cable - it controls way more than just fuel. Do some searching.
EXUP is right after the collector, it has to be cut out or go full system to remove it.
It can be disabled via the ECU though as what happened when mine began acting up.
as far as fuel controllers: TuneECU is a free program which allows yous to tune, disable and check various systems on the bike. Check below for more info.
Its up to you and what you want to do with your bike. TuneEcu can do pretty much the average person wants to do and all you need to get is a $7 cable. There are several people running PC/Bazzaz?TuneBoy.
For the 12,000 mile check, I did the brake fluid flush, coolant flush and oil change myself. All the dealer had to do was the valve check (which did need an adjustment), replace the air filter and spark plugs, and a visual go-over of the bike. Dealer charged $300.
Dealer charges for the 12,000 check are all over the map, just like their locations.
Shop around - also what type of insurance are you getting. 675 was considerably cheaper than the 600 I4's in the Bay Area due to much lower theft record (i think that's the reason at least - either way my quotes were $700 vs $900 for substantial coverage).
Ok. The exup on my r6 was inside the stock slip on, but to remove the cables it involved a bit of work. If I end up buying the bike hopefully it already has a full system on it.
A full system for a 675 can be pretty expensive, have a search through the performance and mod threads, if you're handy with a welder and a grinder there's some great ideas.
I run a PCIII on my 2008, only because I'm computer illiterate, the TuneECU program spun me out. Put tools in my hand and I'm good, give me a computer shit will get broken :biggrinjester:
I did everything for the 12k service myself except the valve adjustment. Everything else is easy.
I think I had all the common issues since I ride a lot. EXUP I disabled through the software and both stator and R/R burned up. Other than that, no issues. The charging system is by far the weak link.
I am on east coast so rates are different, it makes me mad the rates are as high as they are given we have a half riding season to begin with. I'm paying 780 on the r6 now and they quoted me about a grand when i called back for a same year d675 and this was with state farm. Geico wanted $2,600 i thought dude was joking lol but he was dead serious.
Does anyone know symptoms of a dying rectifier/stator?
There is a 2009 out of state that I may go look at this weekend, it is my understanding that all of those were under a rectifier recall?
I am on east coast so rates are different, it makes me mad the rates are as high as they are given we have a half riding season to begin with. I'm paying 780 on the r6 now and they quoted me about a grand when i called back for a same year d675 and this was with state farm. Geico wanted $2,600 i thought dude was joking lol but he was dead serious.
If it hasn't had the R/R recall done, do it just in case.
Some people(myself included..bought new-2008/13,000mi) have not had an issue with the original R/R. others have had multiple failures.
My closest dealer has a R/R on order for me.
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