How To: Yoyodyne Slipper Clutch Install w/ *PICS* [Archive] - Triumph675.Net Forums

: How To: Yoyodyne Slipper Clutch Install w/ *PICS*


brettmess
10-21-06, 15:58
Here it is, I was going to wait for my Woodcraft covers to come in but did it anyways.

TOOLS NEEDED

1.Metric Sockets 8mm,10mm,12mm,32mm
2.Torque wrench to atleast 98NM
3.Motion Pro Clutch holding tool
4.Ratchets
5.Breaker Bar
5.Digital Caliper
6.Metric allen wrench set
7.Dental pick

Materials

1.New Clutch cover gasket
2.Loctite
3.Yoyodyne slipper clutch :D
4.675 Service manual if you have it.
5.Brake Cleaner

The install wasn't too bad, with any mechanical skills anyone can install this clutch.


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics010.jpg

Remove all fairings and put the bike on stands

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics011.jpg

First step is to slacken clutch engagement line by loosening the two 12mm nuts. Shown Here. Then remove the clutch line from the bracket.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics012.jpg

Then remove the cover and place out of the way. You can see some gasket residue left behind, we will get to that later.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics014.jpg

Now this is what you will be working with remove the clutch springs with your 10mm socket.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics016.jpg

Once all the springs are removed set them aside and remove the pressure plate. I like to set it upside down on some towling just to the left of me so I can then stack the plates on top of it just as they are in the clutch basket.(for easy install later) this is important because you want Xthe plates to go in just as they came out.EXCEPT THE JUDDER SPRINGS AND PLATE THEY GO IN THIRD!http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics017.jpg
Stacking the plates on the pressure plate
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics019.jpg
Drive plates behind the pressure plate
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics018.jpg
Here is where its nice to have a dental pick, Remove the judder springs remembering exactly the way they came out. The curve faces the clutch cover. THE JUDDER SPRINGS ARE TO BE MOVED TO THE THIRD PLATE IN THE STACK NOT THE FIRST.http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics020.jpg

Next judder spring, and then theres a smaller friction plate.Thats all of them.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics021.jpg

You can remove the clutch actuating pin if you want to inspect it, or just leave it.

Next to remove the clutch drum with the Motion Pro Clutch holding tool. Install the tool inbetween two spleens and hand tighten the knob. HAND TIGHTEN ONLYPlace the end of the tool on the rearset, so the tool can act as a lever so you can remove the nut by yourself using a breaker bar. The nut is torqued to 98NM
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics023.jpg

Nut Removed you will see this washer telling you what way to reinstall (thanks triumph)
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics024.jpg

Then you can remove the drum. And now your half way their just time for reinstall.http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics025.jpg

Install the new yoyodyne drum. Install the washers and nut just like you removed them.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics026.jpg

Apply the clutch holding tool and get your torque wrench set to 98NM, again put the clutch holding tool on the rearset, but underneath this time.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics027.jpg

http://www.yoyodyneti.com/Product/Clutch_Plates.jpg

Then measure the height of the pressure plate to the drum, I came up with 6.58mm with no plates. Then install all the plates(REMEMBER THE JUDDER SPRING PLATE GOES IN THIRD) and measure your stack height.(my battery was dying so it was flashing the reading) with plates installed my stack height came to 7.61 perfect**you want roughly 1 mm of change for the clutch to work properly.Install the springs.http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics028.jpg
Now to the clutch cover. You want to remove all existing residue from the old gasket. I used some brake cleaner to loosen up the residue then used my fingernail to remove. YOU DO NOT WANT TO MARE THE MATING SURFACE this will create leaks, clean the cover and case.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics029.jpg

Clean cover
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics030.jpg

New gasket, the writing goes on the inside.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics031.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics032.jpg

The biggest problem I had was getting the clutch line engagement lever back together. Make sure the lever is on the inside of the frame(see pic) and back on the push rod. Then make sure the cover seats on the two locating dowls and install the cover bolts by hand then torque to 9NM.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b119/brettmess24/675Howtoopics033.jpg

HOPE THIS HELPS if anyone needs any further help please feel free to instant message. :D[/img]

brettmess
10-21-06, 16:07
Was this How too helpful??????????? :D

lextaneuroauto
10-21-06, 16:43
wow thanks for the write up

Scrabba
10-21-06, 16:43
Thanks for hookin this up so quick and not waiting for the covers to come in. But a few of ur pics have the img ins and out reversed if you could just switch the back slashes I'll be good to follow ur lead.

Thanks Again!

brettmess
10-21-06, 16:47
Thanks man I fixed it :D

Scrabba
10-21-06, 16:49
U DA MAN! :D

Now if only I didn't have to go to a BBQ today! :x

Ross Walter
10-21-06, 16:56
:cry: That first plate will explode under race conditions trust me it has hapened to us.

Scrabba
10-21-06, 16:57
Oh two quick questions.

1. There isn't a break-in process since your using the same plates right?
2. Where did you pick up the new gasket from? dealer?

Thx

brettmess
10-21-06, 16:58
:cry: That first plate will explode under race conditions trust me it has hapened to us.

Please tell me more :oops: Do I need to remove it? Did you guys put it in as the first plate or the third plate?

Scrabba
10-21-06, 16:58
:cry: That first plate will explode under race conditions trust me it has hapened to us.

Over how long a period of time did it take for that to happen?

brettmess
10-21-06, 16:59
Oh two quick questions.

1. There isn't a break-in process since your using the same plates right?
2. Where did you pick up the new gasket from? dealer?

Thx

bikebandit

but mr. walter has me worried now :oops:I hope its just because they installed theirs wrong, by putting that judder spring plate first!!!!

brettmess
10-21-06, 17:21
gone sorry

Quickshifter
10-21-06, 19:28
When I get five minutes I will ask sigma if they market under a different name in the USA, look very like a sigma.

With ours we dump the judder spring but then ours are race bikes, we put the special friction plate at the beginning and the end of the stack, that way they wear the surfaces of the clutch less. (They are a softer compound).
If that is what the maunual has told you to do that is what you should do, especially as it is a road bike.

ShaneXman
10-21-06, 19:52
U DA MAN! :D

Now if only I didn't have to go to a BBQ today! :x

You're telling me!!! :wink: 8)


VERY nice write-up BlackTriple...THANKS!!! :D

Scrabba
10-21-06, 21:13
:cry: That first plate will explode under race conditions trust me it has hapened to us.

hey shane I got a slipper clutch for you. :shock: :lol:

brettmess
10-21-06, 21:37
[content deleted :D

Scrabba
10-21-06, 21:55
:cry: That first plate will explode under race conditions trust me it has hapened to us.

hey shane I got a slipper clutch for you. :shock: :lol:

Are you scared? .

Nah, just messin with Shane since he missed the GB.

ShaneXman
10-21-06, 22:29
:cry: That first plate will explode under race conditions trust me it has hapened to us.

hey shane I got a slipper clutch for you. :shock: :lol:

Sweet....I will pick it up tonight. See you in a few! 8)

toxidomask
10-22-06, 01:14
dangg that seemed easy.

KevinH
10-22-06, 13:50
I just got the slipper clutch and thanks for the install instructions. I looked at the dvd that came with the clutch and there does not appear to be any instructions for the 675. I don't understand what you are measuring.

"Then measure the height of the pressure plate to the drum, I came up with 6.58mm with no plates. Then install all the plates(REMEMBER THE JUDDER SPRING PLATE GOES IN THIRD) and measure your stack height.(my battery was dying so it was flashing the reading) with plates installed my stack height came to 7.61 perfect**you want roughly 1 mm of change for the clutch to work "


Also in the picture that you posted where you show the micrometer the clutch in the background has one spring with a collar not tightened down and the other appear to be tightened with the bolt on the springs but no collar. Is that just a test fit?
Where does the bolded comment about the judder springs needing to be moved to the third position in the slipper clutch come from? I have 950 street miles on my bike before being converted to a track bike should I expect the the measurements may be less than the 1mm needed?

brettmess
10-22-06, 13:54
no help here

KevinH
10-22-06, 14:54
Ok I think I see how this slipper clutch is supposed to work now. As I was looking at it and the pictures I forgot that when I put the clutch on the bike I will have installed the original clutch springs which w/o plates will be pushing the pressure plate away just based on spring height once the plates are installed then it will be the stacked height pushing also against the springs.


I'm ready to tackle this when the gasket comes in next week!!!!!

brettmess
11-13-06, 21:53
My YOYODYNE slipper worked perfectly at our last track day and no exploding disks!

One thing that I forgot to mention on the install was the fact that you WILL need to adjust your slack in the clutch cable.

Scrabba
11-14-06, 14:32
My YOYODYNE slipper worked perfectly at our last track day and no exploding disks!

One thing that I forgot to mention on the install was the fact that you WILL need to adjust your slack in the clutch cable.

No exploding disks but I did manage to blow up a bolt or two. :shock:

I finally got my clutch gasket from Triumph this weekend and began installation last night. The installation was almost complete when the fourth of the five spring bolts snapped while I was tightening the pressure plate. I had the torque wrench set to 10nm, which was what the stock bolts were torqued to. Seeing how much thinner the Yoyo bolts were than the stock ones I should have made an adjustment but he first 3 seamingly went fine. Upon removal of the pressure plate to reinstall the stock clutch, a second bolt snapped. I guess in using the stock setting I over-torqued the bolts them causing them to snap. :( :evil:

Just glad I didn't screw up the threads in the drum. So now I'm trying to get replacements for the bolts and collars.

Blacktriple did you manually tighten the pressure plate bolts?

brettmess
11-14-06, 17:10
poopy

KevinH
11-14-06, 23:28
I used a small torque wrench for my bicycle that went to 7NM and then just tightened a little more with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. the bolts didn't break. If I had a torque wrench that went to 10Nm I would have done so per the Triumph manual. I thought briefly that the bolts looked smaller. Where are you getting the bolts ? from Yoyodyne? Its not a big deal to change them out... What do you guys think? Should I change mine?

brettmess
11-14-06, 23:47
KevinH your technique sounds fine to me, no need to replace.

KevinH
11-14-06, 23:56
I went through the CD that came with the clutch . I didn't find a reference to the triumph 675 but I did find instructions for other bikes that used the YOYODyne slipper cluch basket and each one said to torque the bolts to 8 to 10 NM. So I think I'm ok also. Going to get another torque wrench .., I think Park sells one. Every bolt on these new bikes is a small as possible to save weight and the torque settings are fron 10 to 20 NM. I hate stripped threads ... bolts... I was at a track day at Roebling Road Two weeks ago ... Young man dropped his drain plug because it was n't tight enough... oiled half the track .. went past 4 black flags... we wasted 1 1/2 hours for clean up. 2nd time I have seen that .

brettmess
11-14-06, 23:58
Thats why everyone should use a good torque wrench and at the least if your going to be on the track safety wire your drain plug.

DANO
12-09-06, 17:46
Why did you delete this content????

lextaneuroauto
12-09-06, 18:27
damn that was a very helpfull post :cry:

KevinH
01-25-07, 16:52
This is a late post . after i installed the slipper clutch I had an issue that I felt a click in the lever when I pulled the clutch in and downshifted. I also heard it. This is normal. I have talked to my mechanic about it + I emailed Yoyodyne and their response was

"What happens is that when the clutch lever is in, there is little pressure on the slipper clutch ramp parts.

When you downshift, the transmission tries to speed up the engine. The slipper clutch than goes into slip mode, and the hub “slaps” the pressure plate. This slapping is the click that you feel in the lever"

At times its not there at times you can really feel it . so if you pull the clutch in and downshift at the same time its simultaneous

brettmess
01-25-07, 17:29
I had a few people PM me about the HOW TO install and I now reposted for all to use.

Frisky
01-25-07, 18:30
Does anyone who fitted the sigma slipper happen to know if the clutch plates are rearranged in the same manner? I heard that the judder springs should be removed?

brettmess
01-25-07, 19:42
Does anyone who fitted the sigma slipper happen to know if the clutch plates are rearranged in the same manner? I heard that the judder springs should be removed?

While your in there I would remove them. I have an extra plate, the next time Im in there I will replace them.

Three track days and no problems with the judder springs. So I think they will be fine for street and track day use. Racing??

If your going to run the judder springs defenitely put them in the third or higher position as they will fall behind the ramp if you do not, regardless of the brand.

ShaneXman
02-11-07, 02:38
BlackTriple,

Would you please re-post the "How To"...I am extremely interested in the install, and will be helping ofcounsel do his. Thanks! :twisted:

BTW, why did you remove the information? Just out of curiosity... :?:

Sponge Bob
02-11-07, 05:04
i´d been interested in the weight of those parts



did anybody compare stock clutch with yoyo, sigma or tts?


heard they´d be heavier than stock :?



cheers


bob

brettmess
02-11-07, 11:52
BlackTriple,

Would you please re-post the "How To"...I am extremely interested in the install, and will be helping ofcounsel do his. Thanks! :twisted:

BTW, why did you remove the information? Just out of curiosity... :?:

Well seeing that you asked, I am a little butt hurt that it was never stickied seeing that I spent a ton of time creating this for others and saving them a ton of money being able to install the part on their own. I mean give me a break theres a how to install sliders,windscreen??? and levers etc..All good write ups but if you cant figure those out on your own you should not be wrenching on your own bike.

This has to be the most technical HOW TOO.. on this board!

Seeing that you asked that is my reason for removing it :wink:

The yoyo clutch is actually a little bit lighter than stock.

Sponge Bob
02-11-07, 13:44
The yoyo clutch is actually a little bit lighter than stock.


wooouuuuhhhooooooohhhhhhhhhhh




tts and sigma are heavier...do you have an exact weightdifference? does anybody know where to get yoyo´s in europe?




cheers



bob

ShaneXman
02-11-07, 14:22
BlackTriple,

Would you please re-post the "How To"...I am extremely interested in the install, and will be helping ofcounsel do his. Thanks! :twisted:

BTW, why did you remove the information? Just out of curiosity... :?:

Well seeing that you asked, I am a little butt hurt that it was never stickied seeing that I spent a ton of time creating this for others and saving them a ton of money being able to install the part on their own. I mean give me a break theres a how to install sliders,windscreen??? and levers etc..All good write ups but if you cant figure those out on your own you should not be wrenching on your own bike.

This has to be the most technical HOW TOO.. on this board!

Seeing that you asked that is my reason for removing it :wink:

The yoyo clutch is actually a little bit lighter than stock.

Well, I apologize for that. Typically, people ask for certain threads to be stickied....at which point we make a decision to sticky them or not. Before this point, I hadn't really looked at this thread since I didn't have any particular interest in a slipper clutch. Once again, I am sorry you were "butt hurt"...and I would be glad to sticky this thread for you. ;) :lol:

brettmess
02-11-07, 15:15
Well because Im such a NICE guy, the post has been added!

Let me know if its helpfull and if you have any further questions I can help with. Maybe we should have a Blacktriple section like Catweazles...lol :lol:

Take care and happy wrenching 8)

brettmess
02-11-07, 15:17
Sponge Bob its not much maybe half a pound or so,

"WERE TALKING GRAMS I HAVE TO MEASURE" as quoted by the late Notorius B.I.G. :D

ShaneXman
02-11-07, 15:23
Well because Im such a NICE guy, the post has been added!

Let me know if its helpfull and if you have any further questions I can help with. Maybe we should have a Blacktriple section like Catweazles...lol :lol:

Take care and happy wrenching 8)

Thanks bud! 8)

Next time, please...just PM me and ask. I am more than accommodating (most of the time). ;) :lol:

ofcounsel
02-11-07, 15:26
Thanks Blacktriple!

How come the judder springs have to be moved to the third position? How did you know to do that???? I guess I never would have figured that out. Thanks..

Also, have you had any problems with it... now that you've had a chance to use it for a while???

DANO
02-11-07, 15:28
Thanks for replacing this content for the Third? time..
Great job by the way....

brettmess
02-11-07, 15:32
Thanks Blacktriple!

How come the judder springs have to be moved to the third position? How did you know to do that???? I guess I never would have figured that out. Thanks..

Also, have you had any problems with it... now that you've had a chance to use it for a while???

The biggest difference in a reg. and slipper is the ramp design wich allows the clutch to slip. Look at your yoyo clutch and you will notice that the ramp lifts, therefore the judder springs would fall behind the ramp and be destroyed!

The best option would be to buy another plate($12) and throw out the judder springs. Me being impatient bought another plate but its sitting in my track day spares along with a new gasket.

I really see no need to replace the judder springs, seeing that I have three track days on the clutch and NO issues what so ever!

So its up to you, I personaly think its fine to keep the springs as I have proven them to work under the hardest of down shifts from 5th to 2nd and it works perfectly.

Sorry for the long answer but now you will be able to decide what route you should take with the judder springs/plate.

ofcounsel
02-11-07, 16:52
Thanks! What function are the springs normally supposed to have??

DANO
02-11-07, 17:14
Thanks! What function are the springs normally supposed to have??

They help ease the connection of the plates and steels so that they dont slap together..... allowwing for smoother clutch engagement "feel",and less wear and tear on the friction plates....not really a concern when "beating" on the bike on the track...

Scrabba
02-12-07, 00:31
Thanks Blacktriple!

How come the judder springs have to be moved to the third position? How did you know to do that???? I guess I never would have figured that out. Thanks..

Also, have you had any problems with it... now that you've had a chance to use it for a while???

If you have the installation CD, although they don't show the 675. It tells you to switch the judder springs/plate to the 3rd position on the other bikes they do show.

Just make sure you don't over-torque the yoyo pressure plate bolts and collars like I did... they'll snap pretty easily.

DANO
03-28-07, 12:45
why was this unstickyied yet again?

AdamB
03-28-07, 12:53
why was this unstickyied yet again?

It wasn't. Look at the announcement post one above this..... http://www.triumph675.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8127.


The stickies were consolidated to clean up the Mod forum.

AMslp_late
05-19-07, 01:17
Thanks Blacktriple!

How come the judder springs have to be moved to the third position? How did you know to do that???? I guess I never would have figured that out. Thanks..

Also, have you had any problems with it... now that you've had a chance to use it for a while???

The biggest difference in a reg. and slipper is the ramp design wich allows the clutch to slip. Look at your yoyo clutch and you will notice that the ramp lifts, therefore the judder springs would fall behind the ramp and be destroyed!

The best option would be to buy another plate($12) and throw out the judder springs. Me being impatient bought another plate but its sitting in my track day spares along with a new gasket.

I really see no need to replace the judder springs, seeing that I have three track days on the clutch and NO issues what so ever!

So its up to you, I personaly think its fine to keep the springs as I have proven them to work under the hardest of down shifts from 5th to 2nd and it works perfectly.

Sorry for the long answer but now you will be able to decide what route you should take with the judder springs/plate.

First, I would like to thank BlackTriple for such an awesome "How-to" on the slipper clutch. I have recently purchased one, 8), and am now trying to figure out something. What part do I replace the judder spring(s) with? Is it a plate or a friction disk? And it just so happens that there are no two alike in the entire assembly. Each plate / disk has it's own part number. :? Do I even NEED to put anything else in there? Or can I just take the judder springs out and leave it at that? Any help in this would be greatly appreciated. :)

TriumphChris675
05-19-07, 03:26
is this mod something worth doing for an aggressive street and occaisonal track day rider

toxidomask
05-19-07, 12:14
months of savings,i need one of these.

armatron
05-19-07, 12:19
Just FYI - change your oil after using these for 30-40 miles or so. New clutch pads/discs creates a lot of shiet in the oil.

todd675
09-06-07, 13:17
I installed the Yoyodyne in July on my track 675, and in order to make the stock clutch pack fit, I removed the base plate of the judder spring and one of the steels. This is contrary to what the directions indicate; you should just drop the stock clutch pack in (in the revised order) and it should work fine. Well, I finally got to Miller Motorsports Park over Labor Day, and the clutch worked great! It was awesome to come off the front straight, downshift from 5th to 3rd, and hear the engine come up to speed slowly as the slipper did its thing. The rear wheel stayed planted and it felt great hauling into corners. So I highly recommend this mod to anyone who is going to the track. Just be aware of the importance of stack height (should be around 7.60 mm) as seen in BlackTripple's install instructions.

ofcounsel
09-06-07, 13:22
Agreed! This is the best mod I have made so far.

brancart1
09-06-07, 13:40
that was an awesome write-up!

did you have to add some oil when you did this? Or should I say did any oil come out when removing the clutch cover?

brettmess
09-09-07, 11:39
that was an awesome write-up!

did you have to add some oil when you did this? Or should I say did any oil come out when removing the clutch cover?

I droped the oil before I did the change(as it was time) but I dont think any oil will seep threw the clutch.

todd675
10-21-07, 21:30
Not sure if the oil level (when not running) would be up to the clutch cover or not. The engine has a pretty deep sump, and there are only 3 quarts or so in the motor. Of course, the manual says to drain the oil though.

todd675
03-15-08, 15:58
A couple of updates for anyone who cares:

After my track day at Miller, I did a track day here at Firebird and after the 4th or 5th session the clutch started slipping big time under full power. Turns out that leaving just the base of the judder as a spacer was wearing a groove into the friction plates that it was stuck between, and the stack height was getting too low for all the plates to stick together and transmit power through the clutch. I took the judder base ring out and replaced it with the extra steel plate I had removed when I first installed it, and now the stack height is at 7.5 mm; pretty good. I took it for a quick spin up the street, and the bike actually wheelied under full power in second gear (hasn't done that before!). No slipping at all. So I'm now running the stock clutch pack with the exception that the judder spring and base ring are removed; I've only got steels and friction discs in there. My next track day is in April and I'll update after that.

Also: you can remove the clutch cover with oil in the engine; the level is well below the cover, especially when it's on the side stand.

rnr
04-27-08, 22:24
I installed my Yoyodine slipper clutch and have a couple of questions to those of you that have installed one. By the way, my clutch drum nut was a 30mm and not a 32mm.

The directions from Yoyo specify Loctite 620 on the clutch drum nut. This is a high temp retaining compound. Although it can be used on threads, its primary purpose is for press fit retaining pins, sleeves, liners, etc. My concern is Loctite specifies heating the object to 400dF for disassembly. I'm trying to figure out if I need to open it back up or not. Regular 'medium' permatex is good to 300dF, and its available, so that's what I used. I need to sort this out, I'll be 'on track' in two weeks. I also installed the stock washers; both the flat washer and the 'market' washer with "out" labeled on it. this causes the nut to just barely (or just barely not) fully engage all the threads of the nut. I am wondering if the first washer (flat one) could be removed.

Did any of you use a thread locker? If so, which did you use? Also, If the nut was to come loose...would it lock in gear or permenantly slip? If this were to happen, How deep would the damage be (replace entire clutch assembly or have to pull the motor)?

thanks in advance for your time.

todd675
05-31-08, 18:26
I didn't use any loctite and so far have 4 high-abuse track days and no problems. If the nut did come loose, the clutch would just start slipping and eventually no power would flow to the transmission at all because the hub would just spin on the crankshaft.

todd675
05-31-08, 18:42
Disregard last post; looks like the hub, or inner drum, splines onto the crankshaft, so the clutch would still operate because the hub is still spinning with the crank. Obviously, the biggest problem would occur if the nut came all the way off while the engine is running. But the clutch should still work even if it comes loose.

tehfastar
06-15-08, 14:39
The Yoyodyne came with a spring washer... where does it go? The instructions that came on the CD are HORRIBLE. Translated very badly into english...

Thanks!

roffe_s
07-08-08, 19:25
Nice and helpful tutorial. FYI - I mounted a STM on my bike this weekend and its quite different to the design of Yoyodyne and Sigma. The dismountal of the clutch is identical, but STM have a totally different spring design. The only thing used from the OEM is the plate package (judder springs excluded), the pull-rod and the bearing.

Thank You, BrettMess:thumbup:

EDIT - some pictures to display the mounting of a STM instead of the Yoyodyne can be found in the thread http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21942

canyondancer
07-08-08, 20:15
Nice write up on the slipper clutch....except please use the correct part name so noobs don't get confused. The thing you are calling a "drum" is a clutch basket.

Unless you are in the UK. :rofl2:

PragB
07-22-08, 17:04
Gonna pull the one out of my bike and put it into a newer, lower mileage engine, so I'll be utilizing the clutch plates out of the newer engine... I didn't install the first time, any pointers to help with dis-assembly & re-assembly?

Also, what happens if the judder spring & friction plate were not moved to the 3rd position, the stealership AZ Stupidbikes seemed to of not installed it correctly...

PragB
07-23-08, 20:47
Talked to Yoyodyne and they said no big deal, but I will be reinstalling correctly... I also had a 30mm nut... Anyone else? Is that just a misprint??

kaareo
10-05-09, 17:11
Did you use the conical washer that was provided by Yoyo for the clutch basket or re-use the Triumph washers that were on the stock basket?

bergs
10-06-09, 00:52
wow, great write-up. how much was it?

bergs
10-06-09, 00:56
The directions from Yoyo specify Loctite 620 on the clutch drum nut. This is a high temp retaining compound. Although it can be used on threads, its primary purpose is for press fit retaining pins, sleeves, liners, etc.

when i worked at Tesla and we were doing transmission builds, we used the 620 stuff (its green) for tapped threads. since the clutch generates a bunch of heat, best not to skimp. McMaster-Carr sells it for~$15.

qweesy
10-06-09, 02:33
when i worked at Tesla and we were doing transmission builds, we used the 620 stuff (its green) for tapped threads. since the clutch generates a bunch of heat, best not to skimp. McMaster-Carr sells it for~$15.
I sell it at NAPA Auto Parts aswell Permatex section

kaareo
10-07-09, 15:07
When installing the Yoyo clutch basket, did you:


Re-use the stock flat washer and belville washer before putting on the 30mm nut
re-use the stock flat washer, belville washer, AND conical shaped washer that yoyo provided
or just use the conical shaped washer that yoyo provided?


Thanks!

doublen675
10-07-09, 15:30
This should be stickied :thumbup:

doublen675
10-07-09, 15:33
This should be stickied :thumbup:

Never mind...:duh:

Mod FAQ's, How To's, Install Help, and Aftermarket Goodies - Triumph675.Net Forums

kaareo
10-07-09, 16:24
When installing the Yoyo clutch basket, did you:


Re-use the stock flat washer and belville washer before putting on the 30mm nut
re-use the stock flat washer, belville washer, AND conical shaped washer that yoyo provided
or just use the conical shaped washer that yoyo provided?


Thanks!

Still interested in help with the question above. :cool2:

quattro750
03-24-11, 21:19
Feedback on mine.
great write up. torque to 8nm as per yoyodyne instructions. they are held by spring pressure anyway.
use old flat and bellville washers. yoyodyne conical remains in box.
relocated judder springs/plates as per instructions

works a treat. should have done it ages ago.
great sticky!
q

Daytona65
04-03-11, 07:12
I just installed the Yoydyne yesterday and wanted to say thanks to Brettmess for taking the time to do an excellent write up.

I do have a couple of questions for those with experience.

I installed in a brand new bike, so no miles or wear on the original clutch pack, and found that even after removing the judder spring and thin plate, that my stack height was about 2mm. It says to have a minimum .4 and ideal is 1mm but nothing about a max.
Is 2mm ok or should i remove a friction plate?

When removing plates, can you put two friction plates together or do you need to put 2 steels together?

Once completed I had to take quite a bit of slack out of the cable. Is this what you all found?

Lastly, I have not been able to road test, but when running on stands, I could feel a pop / click in the lever and also hear it in the clutch pack. From what I've read this sounds like it is somewhat normal, but thought I'd ask here to see what others have experienced. Also if normal, do you think it is worse without having a load on the drive train, being up on stands?

wavrdr
04-03-11, 17:26
Installed mine with a new clutch pack and did not measure stack height...I have a similiar little "notch" at the end of the lever pull. Everything works fine for me...Good luck!

ryan00davis
02-25-12, 21:44
I finished the install today, also have a strange lever feel.
I could not get my setup to come out to 1.0-1.5mm clearance. the closest I could get was about 1.9mm (by removing the judder spring and other spacer thing that is with it). As a result, i fear it's not optimally slipping.

Does anybody know if any of the shim kits that yoyodyne sells will fit our bike? or is there any other shim out there designed for our bike?

http://www.yoyodyneti.com/category.aspx?categoryID=2958

JazMan
02-25-12, 22:49
Do not have a yoyodyne slipper but do have a STM slipper, I know when I installed mine I had to get a different thickness steel plate from Triumph to get the proper measurement, I am sure you could do the same for yours.

ryan00davis
02-28-12, 18:17
Do you know the part number of that part? I called my local triumph dealer and they did not know of any such part, only the OEM plates.

drsubie
08-23-12, 22:55
When installing the Yoyo clutch basket, did you:


Re-use the stock flat washer and belville washer before putting on the 30mm nut
re-use the stock flat washer, belville washer, AND conical shaped washer that yoyo provided
or just use the conical shaped washer that yoyo provided?


Thanks!


I too am running into this problem--not sure whether to re-use the stock Triumph washers behind the 30mm nut or to somehow incorporate the one that came with the Yoyodyne...anyone?

drsubie
08-24-12, 02:25
just re-read some of the posts, and it seems like using the Yoyodyne conical washer is not necessary, so I just re-used the stock triumph washers...

I ended up having to leave out the judder spring and it's backing plate in order to make the ~1mm difference pre and post. We'll see how she runs in the morning on a test run...

drsubie
08-25-12, 03:59
got it all installed, test rode it on the street, seemed to work fine. I ended up leaving out the judder spring and it's associated backing plate to end up near the 1mm difference.

carnage.inc
12-24-12, 22:56
What motion pro clutch holding tool is used with this clutch?

drsubie
01-02-13, 15:43
What motion pro clutch holding tool is used with this clutch?

I used this tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HS4NA8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

The only issues with it are that the jaws didn't quite perfectly clamp onto the Yoyo clutch basket, so it's easy to mar the relatively soft aluminum. If I had to do it over again, I'd probably use some kind of duct tape to wrap around the jaws...

Overall, install was pretty easy provided you read this thread. The specific parts you leave out (like the judder spring, etc...) may vary, due to manufacturing tolerances...

dubguy85
01-02-13, 17:34
I had mine installed by someone and it works great.. does anyone know how to have it slip a little less.. Like have a slight amount of engine break to settle the rear when entering a corner? I feel like if it is all slip and I do all my braking with my front brake the bike won't be as settled as I'd like.. I just want it to work like an OEM slipper such as gsxr, kawi, etc.

chuxter
02-25-13, 16:32
Just completed this install over the weekend with the help of this thread and a Youtube video. As previously stated, the instructions on the provided disc were not the greatest.

At some points, I wondered if I had the correct slipper despite the markings on it, because the groves on the Yoyodyne mounting point were a slightly different shape from the groves on the shaft in the clutch basket. The Yoyodyne didn't just easily slide into place like the OEM slid on and off. It took a little bit of muscle.

Putting the clutch cover back on and ensuring that the connection was made inside with the pull pin was a challenge. Strangely, my clutch cover didn't have a gasket to remove or any residue to clean off. I installed a new clutch cover gasket anyway.

Depth of the pressure plate was within spec, as were the stock friction plates, although they were on the low end of the serviceable range. I can't wait to try it out.

chuxter
02-27-13, 16:48
I had mine installed by someone and it works great.. does anyone know how to have it slip a little less.. Like have a slight amount of engine break to settle the rear when entering a corner? I feel like if it is all slip and I do all my braking with my front brake the bike won't be as settled as I'd like.. I just want it to work like an OEM slipper such as gsxr, kawi, etc.

I think the red or grey buckets that go on top of the springs help determine how much engine braking you get. Underneath your clutch cover, do you have red buckets around the screws, or grey buckets?

mjkuhno
12-09-13, 07:55
Awesome write-up! Big thanks to the OP for the info; once I figured out how to read the picture of re-inserting the clutch plates/springs (starting from the engine case - 'special' friction plate goes in right before the judder spring - doh!)

Now I can't wait for a decent day here in NC to try it out - and for next season to really put it through it's paces!

Thanks again to the people on this forum for sharing info like this - big :thumbsup:

expl_eng
02-23-14, 18:31
Got mine installed. I had to remove the judder spring and special friction plate to get it into spec and disengaging.

Thanks to the op for the excellent write-up.

the knuckle
06-19-14, 10:52
Another thanks for the write up, I had to remove the judder spring to get it to work also.